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1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1/2 pound smoked ham, cut in thin strips

3 tablespoons tomato paste

1 pound crabmeat

1/3 cup dark rum

1 cup white wine

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Pinch of sugar

1/4 cup heavy cream

Let the bacon try out in a large skillet. Add the onions and garlic and allow them to just color. Add the ham and heat through. Add the tomato paste and crabmeat; pour the rum over this and ignite. When it has flamed, add the wine, parsley, and sugar and let it all simmer for 15 minutes. Finally stir in the heavy cream. Serve with a rice pilaf.

CRAB À L’AMÉRICAINE

If live crabs are available in your part of the country, use them in this recipe and eat the crab from the shell, cracking the claws at the table. If you cannot get crab in the shell, follow the note at the end of the recipe. First, the sauce:

Sauce Américaine

3 tablespoons butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

6 shallots or green onions, finely chopped

5 large or 8 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

1 clove garlic, chopped

3 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 tablespoon fresh or 1 teaspoon dried tarragon

11/2 teaspoons thyme

1/2 bay leaf

Salt

4 tablespoons tomato paste

Melt the butter in a skillet, add the onions, and let them cook for a few minutes but do not let them brown. Add the shallots, tomatoes, garlic, and seasonings and salt to taste. Let this all simmer for 1 hour or until well blended and thick. Add the tomato paste. Now, for the rest of the recipe:

3 Dungeness crabs or 6 rather small blue crabs

1/2 cup olive oil

11/2 cups white wine

1/4 cup cognac or whiskey

Few grains cayenne pepper

Wash the crabs and remove their backs. Crack the claws, and cut the crabs in half with a sharp knife. Heat the olive oil in a large kettle, add the pieces of crab and sear quickly, turning with a wooden spoon and fork so that the flesh of the crab comes into contact with the hot oil. Add the white wine, brandy, and sauce and let it all simmer for 20 or 25 minutes. Add the cayenne, and taste for seasoning. Serve with a rice pilaf and plenty of large paper napkins or biblike aprons. This is not a dainty dish to eat and you must use your fingers.

NOTE: If you are making this dish with crabmeat already taken from the shell, prepare the sauce in the same way. Then sauté the crabmeat — 11/2 pounds — in the olive oil for 3 minutes. Add the brandy or whiskey and the wine. Combine with the sauce and cook up for just a few minutes before serving.

CRABMEAT AND RICE

11/2 cups rice

1 pound crabmeat

1 cup cooked green peas

6 tablespoons butter

1/2 cup finely chopped parsley

3 tablespoons grated onion

2 finely chopped pimientos

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Grated Parmesan cheese

Cook the rice in your usual way. When it is drained and fluffy add the crabmeat, peas, butter, and flavorings. Season to taste and toss lightly until well mixed. Place in a casserole or copper baking dish, sprinkle liberally with grated cheese, dot with butter, and heat in a 425° oven for 10 minutes — or until it is thoroughly heated through. Serve with a tomato sauce, if you wish, although I prefer mine plain.

CRABMEAT CREOLE

2 small onions, thinly sliced

1/4 cup olive oil

1 large or 2 small green peppers, finely shredded

4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped

1 stalk celery, finely chopped

1/2 cup white wine

1 clove garlic, crushed

3 tablespoons tomato paste

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound crabmeat

Sauté the onions in the olive oil until just soft but not browned. Add the peppers, tomatoes, and celery. Cover and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes or until the vegetables are soft and well blended. Add the garlic, tomato paste, and salt and pepper to taste. Finally add the crabmeat and cook until it is thoroughly heated. Serve with rice.

CRABMEAT QUICHE

Pastry for a 9-inch shell

Egg white

1 tablespoon finely chopped celery

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

1/4 cup white wine or 2 tablespoons sherry or dry vermouth

About 11/2 cups crabmeat

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

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