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come under our supervision since World War II. This delectable and expensive delicacy is obtainable frozen — usually precooked in its shell — and also as cleaned crabmeat. One of the giant center claws is a generous portion. In my opinion it is as fine as any crabmeat I have ever tasted.

KING CRAB SALAD

Cut the meat into good-sized lumps and combine with mayonnaise. Garnish with chopped hard-cooked eggs and capers. Serve on a bed of greens.

BROILED KING CRAB LEGS

Remove just enough of the tough shell of each leg so that you can baste the meat inside freely. You should also consider the diner and allow enough room for him to get in with knife and fork. Brush the meat well with butter and broil over charcoal or under the broiler just long enough to heat it through. (Remember these crabs are precooked.) Baste during the cooking with melted butter and lemon juice or dry sherry. Take care that you do not overcook. Serve with additional melted butter.

CRAB LEGS RÉMOULADE OR MAYONNAISE

Serve the crab legs in the shell after you have thoroughly thawed them. Pass the rémoulade (page 35) or mayonnaise (page 34) and lemon wedges.

KING CRAB À L’AMÉRICAINE

Leave the meat in the shells, but cut each shell in half and sauté very quickly in olive oil. Combine with sauce à l’Américaine (page 28) and serve as you do lobster à l’Américaine.

KING CRAB NEWBURG

See lobster Newburg, pages 396–397.

KING CRAB THERMIDOR

See lobster thermidor, page 398.

KING CRAB SOUFFLÉ

See crabmeat soufflé page 377.

Stone Crabs

This delicacy is found mainly in the South around Key West, Miami, and Palm Beach. Only the large claws are used.

STONE CRAB LEGS BEURRE NOIR

Cook the crabs in a court bouillon (page 18) for 20 minutes. Remove the large claws and serve them, 2 to 4 to a person, with beurre noir and wedges of lemon. (For beurre noir, see page 31.) Save the other parts of the crab for salad or for:

CRABMEAT SAUTÉ FLORIDA

Pick the meat from the crab and sauté 2 cups of it in 1/4 pound butter, tossing it lightly. Salt and pepper to taste and add 4 tablespoons lime juice and 1/4 cup chopped parsley. Serve on fried toast.

VARIATION

Add 4 tablespoons sherry or Madeira.

Crawfish or Crayfish

These are the beloved écrevisses of the French. They are rare in Eastern markets but sold in large quantities in Portland, Seattle, New Orleans, and in Wisconsin and Minnesota.

As a young boy, I often fished for crawfish in the Necanicum River in Oregon, using a piece of liver on a string. Later, I also enjoyed great plates of them, along with many glasses of beer, at Jake’s Crawfish Parlor in Portland. Jake’s crawfish were cooked to perfection in a spiced court bouillon. Years afterward, in more sophisticated days, I ate the fabulous and famed gratin d’écrevisses in the great restaurants of France. I have eaten them, too, at the Swedish festivals in August when crawfish are the special dish, accompanied, of course, by aquavit and beer.

In some parts of the country you will find crawfish in the markets the year round. In other areas you must check with your local fish dealer to find when they will be available.

It is hard to tell you just how many crawfish will make a serving. One person can easily eat 10 to 12, but some people may want more than a dozen.

ÉCREVISSES BORDELAISE

24 to 36 crawfish

2 carrots, cut in julienne strips

2 onions, cut in julienne strips

2 stalks celery, cut in julienne strips

4 or 5 tablespoons butter

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 cups white wine

11/2 cups tomato sauce

Wash the crawfish well. It is wise to tear off the tiny wing in the center of the tail. This loosens and brings with it the small black intestine.

Prepare a mirepoix: Melt the butter in a large kettle and cook the vegetables in it until they are wilted. Salt and pepper to taste, add the wine, and let it cook for a few minutes. Add the crawfish and cook them just long enough to color their shells — about 5 minutes. Add the tomato sauce. Bring it up to a boil and let it