James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [135]
LOBSTER PHOCEENNE
Court bouillon (page 18)
1 lobster (about 2 pounds)
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 shallots, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 green pepper, chopped
3/4 cup rice
Pinch of saffron
Prepare a strong court bouillon and let it reduce by half. Strain. Cut the live lobster in half and remove the intestinal tract. Heat the olive oil in a deep pot and add the lobster, salt, pepper, shallots, garlic, and green pepper. Toss the lobster in the oil to redden it; add the rice and saffron. Pour the court bouillon over all, cover tightly, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and let it cook very slowly for about 20 minutes or until the rice is done. Serve the lobster on a bed of the rice.
STUFFED LOBSTER DROUANT
4 small lobsters
Butter
21/2 cups sauce béchamel (page 23)
1 tablespoon dry mustared
Cayenne pepper
1 cup grated Gruyère cheese
Split the live lobsters and remove the intestinal tract. Butter them lightly and broil for 12 to 15 minutes, depending on their size. When cooked, remove the lobster meat from the shells and keep it hot.
Season the sauce béhamel with the mustard and cayenne. Spread a thin layer of sauce in the empty lobster shells, add pieces of the lobster meat cut in thin slices and cover these with additional sauce. Sprinkle the top with grated cheese. Place in a 400° oven until heat through.
LOBSTTER THERMIDOR
This dish was first served at the famous Café de Paris in Paris. It was created by Monsieur Tony Girod and this is the original recipe.
1 lobster (about 2 pounds)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2/3 cup olive oil
2/3 cup white wine
2/3 cup bouillon (fish or meat stock)
1 tablespoon chopped challot or green onion
1 tablespoon chopped tarragon or chervil and tarragon
1 cup sauce béchamel (page 28)
3/4 cup heavy cream, mixed with 2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon dry mustard
Grated Parmesan cheese
Melted butter
Split the live lobster in half. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and brush with olive oil. Bake it in a 425° oven for approximately 18 minutes. Baste during the cooking with additional olive oil. When the lobster is cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the body and claws and dice it. Combine the wine, broth, and herbs and cook until it is reduced to practically a glaze. Add this to the sauce béchamel and stir in the cream mixed with the egg yolks. Allow this to heat without boiling. Add the mustard and taste for seasoning. When it is well thickened, add the lobster meat and heat through. Fill the lobster shells with this mixture, sprinkle with the grated cheese, brush with the butter, and brown in a 375° oven.
VARIATIONS
1. The American version of this recipe omits the mustard and tarragon and adds sautéed mushrooms and a little sherry.
2. Here is a quick version. Make a cream sauce and flavor it with sherry and plenty of mustard. Arrange frozen lobster meat in an ovenproof dish, add the sauce, sprinkle with grated cheese, and brown in the oven.
HOMARD AUX AROMATES
4 lobsters (about 11/2 pounds each)
White wine court bouillon (pages 19–20; add thyme, bay leaf, parsley, peppercorns, and coriander)
4 tablespoons heavy cream
Beurre manié (page 475)
1 cup Hollandaise sauce (pages 25–26)
Fresh tarragon
This dish is a favorite in France and there are a number of recipes for it. I give two that I regard as distinctive, each in its own way. This recipe will serve 4 people.
Poach the lobsters in the court bouillon. When they are cool enough to handle remove the meat from the bodies and claws. Reduce the court bouillon to 11/2 cups of liquid, strain, and add the cream and beurre manié. Stir until thickened and add the Hollandaise sauce. Arrange the lobster shells on a serving dish, fill them with the lobster meat, and cover with the sauce. Sprinkle generously with chopped tarragon.
VARIATION
Prepare 2 cups of sauce velouté (page 21) using bouillon, white wine, and cream