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By Root 993 0

a rather soft, bluish-black shell that is slightly ribbed. It is one of the most abundant seafoods in America and one of the most neglected. In fact, so little attention has been paid to it that there is no accurate idea of the extent of the mussel beds around our shores. They are found in great profusion on both coasts, but on the Pacific Coast, where people have occasionally been poisoned by them, they are quarantined during the dangerous period and cannot be obtained.

It is interesting that in Europe mussels are so popular that the demand cannot be met from natural sources. For years they have been artificially propagated in enormous quantities.

The most common mussel dish known in this country is one served in nearly every French restaurant — moules marinière. It is often made incorrectly, but still people love it and order it over and over — dipping in with their fingers and lapping up the juice with great delight.

This is the most authentic recipe I know of for this really fine dish.

MUSSELS MARINIÈRE

The mussels must be washed and the beard — the gathering of vegetation on the shell — must be removed.

This recipe will serve 4 people.

1 large onion, chopped

2 or 3 sprigs of parsley

Pinch of thyme

2 quarts mussels, washed and bearded

6 or 7 tablespoons butter

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup white wine

Chopped parsley

Salt (if needed)

Place the onion in the bottom of a saucepan with the parsley and thyme. Add the mussels, 3 or 4 tablespoons of the butter, and a good sprinkling of pepper. Pour over this the wine, cover the saucepan, and let it steam over a low flame. Steam just until the mussels open. (If by chance any of them do not open, remove them at once and throw them away.)

When the mussels are open, you may remove the empty half of the shell or not, as you prefer. Arrange them in a large tureen or bowl. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons butter and a handful of chopped parsley to the broth, taste for seasoning,* and pour it over the mussels. You’ll need plenty of toasted French bread or toast with this dish to sop up the juice — and not a drop should be wasted.

VARIATIONS

1. Instead of the onion, use 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped, and substitute olive oil for the butter.

2. If you like a thick sauce, add a little beurre manié (page 475) and stir until smooth.

MUSSELS POULETTE

Prepare the mussels as for mussels marinière. Combine the broth with 11/2 cups heavy white sauce and stir until thoroughly blended and thickened. Add a few tablespoons of essence of mushrooms or mushroom broth and the juice of a lemon. Remove the empty half of the shell from the cooked mussels and serve them with the sauce poured over them.

MUSSELS RAVIGOTE PASCAL

Steam the mussels as for mussels marinière. Remove the empty half of the shell and allow the mussels to chill. Add a spoonful of sauce rémoulade (page 35) to each mussel and serve as an hors d’oeuvre. Six to 8 mussels will make a serving.

MUSSEL SALAD

Prepare the mussels as for mussels mariniére. Take the mussels out of the shells and marinate them in a well-seasoned vinaigrette sauce (page 36). Arrange them on a bed of shredded lettuce and mask with mayonnaise. Garnish with watercress, capers, and a good dash of paprika.

STUFFED MUSSELS

Prepare the mussels as for mussels marinière, reserving the broth. Remove the mussels from the shells, but keep the half shells. Chop the mussel meat coarsely and combine with the following stuffing.

4 tablespoons chopped onion

3 tablespoons chopped celery

1 tablespoon chopped green pepper

6 tablespoons butter

4 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 cup toasted crumbs

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon salt

Few grains cayenne pepper

Sauté the onion, celery, and green pepper in the butter until just tender. Add the parsley, toasted crumbs, and seasonings. Add the chopped mussels and enough of the broth from the mussels to make a moist mixture. Heap this into the half shells and dot with butter. Heat in a 450° oven until lightly browned.

CURRIED MUSSELS

Prepare mussels