James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [143]
The American oyster was a staple in the diet of our coast Indians, and the great piles of shells found in many areas along our shores are evidence of the magnitude of Indian appetites. And because the popularity of oysters has continued so strongly among those of us who have more recently taken over this continent, most of the natural oyster beds are gone. We must rely now on cultivated beds. Over 90 million pounds of oysters are consumed in this country every year, and that is quite a few oysters.
Even so, we are actually sissies when it comes to eating oysters. Our grandfathers ate them by the gross, not the dozen. It was once commonplace for people to eat several dozen just as a first course. Today, in most European cities, a dozen oysters are considered a portion, rather than the half dozen usually served here.
There is great variety in types of oysters. Those from separate beds in the same area, such as Long Island, have decidedly different flavors, as you can readily find out for yourself by a comparative tasting of them. They contain different quantities of salt* or have different degrees of coppery flavor. Some are fat and plump, others are thin and very flat. The tiny Olympia oyster of the Pacific Coast has a most distinctive flavor, as have certain Eastern oysters that have been transplanted to the Pacific. The Chincoteagues of Chesapeake Bay have their unique qualities. Then there are the Japanese oysters that have been planted along the Western coastline. These are giants — so large no one would dare try to eat them on the half shell.
But no matter what sort of oyster you select or how you choose to prepare it, you are eating great gourmet fare.
OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL
By far the most common way to serve oysters is raw. Unfortunately, someone who was certainly no oyster lover started serving what is now known far and wide as “cocktail sauce” — usually nothing more than a fantastic mixture of tomato sauce, chili sauce, horseradish, and other condiments. This is my pet abomination. A sauce of this kind entirely destroys the delicate flavor of the oyster. A freshly opened oyster, served on the half shell in a bed of ice, needs only a little squirt of lemon juice, and perhaps some freshly ground pepper. The only tolerable variation is the addition of a dab of caviar. Some gourmets will allow sauce mignonette — a combination of pepper, vinegar, and a little shallot. Don’t forget to drink the juice in the bottom of the shell — never waste it.
The usual portion is 6 oysters to a person. If they are medium-sized, serve 12. And you may figure that the average diner can eat 36 to 48 of the tiny Olympias. Always be sure that they are icy cold and serve them on ice so they will stay that way.
With all oyster dishes used as a first course, serve thin — paper-thin — slices of delicate rye or pumpernickel bread heavily buttered. A brisk dry white wine, such as a fine Chablis or a Pouilly Fuisse, is excellent with oysters. Some people prefer a light beer, and beer does do a wonderful job of complementing all seafoods and fish.
OYSTERS WITH COCKTAILS OR CHAMPAGNE
1. Several times in this country and many times in France I have been served oysters on the half shell with cocktails. Huge platters of them were passed and each guest helped himself.
2. Open-faced oyster sandwiches are another treat. Butter well some rounds of pumpernickel bread, spread with finely chopped onion, place a raw oyster on each, and top it with a dab of caviar. Superb!
3. Butter some pumpernickel rounds, spread lightly with anchovy paste, and top with a raw oyster. Delicious with cocktails.
4. Small oysters perfectly fried (see fried oysters, page 434) and served on fried toast rounds are wonderful hot tidbits with either cocktails or champagne. But they must be piping hot. You can spread the toast with anchovy paste before topping with the oyster if you wish.
5. Another unforgettable hot snack