James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [146]
1 loaf of bread, unsliced
Butter
Fried or sautéed oysters
For this dish, try to find a really good loaf of bread — difficult these days, I know, but try. The round Italian loaves will do, or the regular loaf-pan loaves. Cut about a 2/3-inch slice off the top of the loaf. Scoop out the interior, leaving a wall about 1/2 inch thick all around. Toast the loaf in a slow oven until it is nicely browned and then brush it well with butter. Fill it with hot fried oysters and put the cover on. To serve, slice with a sharp knife.
These may be made in individual sizes as well. French rolls — or, if you can find them, those rolls that are baked in miniature bread pans — are ideal for this.
I hate to mention it, but the traditional condiment with any oyster loaf is tomato catsup or chili sauce.
NOTE: Any other type of seafood may be substituted for the oysters in this recipe.
OYSTER FRITTERS
Drain the oysters well and roll them in flour. Preheat fat or oil to 380°. Dip the oysters in beer batter (page 99) and fry in the deep fat for about 2 minutes, or until browned and crisp. Drain on absorbent paper and salt and pepper to taste. Serve with a tartar sauce (pages 35–36) or rémoulade (page 35).
OYSTER CROUSTADES
Roll brioche dough 1/2 inch thick and cut it in small rounds. Place two oysters apiece on half of the rounds, sprinkle them with salt and freshly ground black pepper; add a dab of butter and some chopped parsley. Dampen the edges of the rounds. Cover each with another round of dough, press the edges together, and fry in deep fat, heated to 375°, until they have risen and browned. Turn once during the cooking. Serve with a tartar sauce (pages 35–36) or tomato sauce (page 23). For brioche dough, see pages 189–190.
VARIATION
Substitute rounds of roll or bread dough for the brioche.
OYSTER PAN ROAST
A pan roast is really oysters poached in butter — and they must have plenty of butter to be good. Personally, I think the tiny oysters of the Pacific Coast are far better for this dish than the larger ones.
1. Melt 1/2 cup butter (1/4 pound) in a skillet. Add 1 pint drained oysters, salt, plenty of freshly ground pepper, a dash of cayenne pepper, and a good squirt of lemon or lime juice. When the oysters are plumped and puffy the pan roast is done. I like mine served on fried toast.
2. Proceed in the same way, adding 2 tablespoons catsup and 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce.
3. When the butter is melted, add 1/3 cup chopped shallots or green onions and 1/4 cup chopped parsley. Add the drained oysters, a dash of red wine, and let it all boil up for 3 minutes.
4. Add 1 clove crushed garlic, 3 tablespoons tomato paste, and 1 teaspoon dry mustard to the butter. Then add the oysters and a dash of lemon juice.
5. Sauté 1/3 cup chopped shallots or green onions and 1/3 cup chopped green peppers in butter until tender. Add the drained oysters, salt, and freshly ground black pepper. A dash of vermouth or white wine makes this extra good.
DEVILS ON HORSEBACK
Wrap oysters individually in thin rashers of bacon and broil until the bacon is crisp. Turn once while cooking. (For added dash, you may, before cooking, marinate the oysters in white wine flavored with garlic and black pepper.)
ANGELS ON HORSEBACK
Sprinkle oysters with finely chopped onion and parsley and wrap in paper-thin strips of smoked ham. Broil for 5 to 8 minutes, turning once. Serve on buttered toast with Hollandaise sauce (pages 25–26).
OYSTERS EN BROCHETTE I
For each brochette:
4 oysters
Lemon juice
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 to 4 mushroom caps
1 long strip of bacon
Butter
Parsley
Sprinkle the oysters with the lemon juice, salt, and pepper. At the end of the brochette place a mushroom cap. Next put the end of the bacon strip, then an oyster, then loop the bacon around the oyster onto the brochette again,