James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [15]
Fish Stews, Chowders, and Soups
It seems to be human nature to like stews, chowders, and heavy soups made of many ingredients. Almost every country has produced its specialty, and perhaps the most famous of all is the bouillabaisse. This splendid concoction is usually associated with the port of Marseilles, but it has been known for centuries, in one form or another, to the residents of the whole of Southern France.
BOUILLABAISSE
Certain Mediterranean fish, not available in this country, are traditional in the bouillabaisse, but excellent substitutes can be found. A good selection for an American bouillabaisse is haddock or bass for the hearty fish, then lemon sole, whiting, red snapper, flounder — practically any other fish you want. And always eel. For shellfish, use lobster, mussels, sea urchins. For a large bouillabaisse:
3 pounds fish:
1 pound eel
1 pound haddock or sea bass
1 pound red snapper
Or you may use a large variety of fish — 1/2 pound each of 6 different kinds
3 pounds lobster
3 dozen mussels
3 leeks
2 large onions, chopped
3 cloves garlic
3 tomatoes
1/3 cup olive oil
Bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf, parsley, celery, rosemary)
Pinch of saffron
Water or fish broth
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Cayenne pepper
Croutons fried in garlic-flavored olive oil
Cut the fish into small serving-sized pieces. Keep the richer, heavier fish — eel, haddock, cod, bass — separate from the more delicate types. Cut the live lobsters into pieces (page 390). Wash and clean the mussels.
Cut the white part of the leeks into small pieces. Chop the onion and the garlic. Peel and seed the tomatoes.
Heat the olive oil in a large kettle. Add the vegetables and let them cook well together. Add the bouquet garni and the heavier fish. Let this cook about 7 or 8 minutes. Add the lighter fish, the lobster, and a good pinch of saffron. Cover with the water or fish broth, season to taste with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and bring to a boil. Cook 8 to 10 minutes. Add the mussels and cook until they open. Place the fish in a deep serving dish and pour the hot liquid over it. Serve the croutons separately.
VARIATION
1. Boil the heads and bones of the fish with water and white wine — 3 quarts of liquid to 3 pounds of heads and bones — for 1/2 hour. Then simmer until the liquid is reduced to 11/2 quarts. Strain, clarify, and use as a liquid for the bouillabaisse.
2. Substitute 1/2 cup of butter for the olive oil. The result is a more delicate dish.
AIGO-SAU
This is similar to bouillabaisse and is also native to the South of France. It is simple to prepare and has interesting variations.
11/2 pounds fresh fish
5 or 6 potatoes, peeled and sliced
2 tomatoes
1 onion
2 cloves garlic
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Seasonings (bay leaf, fennel, parsley, celery, grated orange rind)
1/3 cup olive oil
Boiling water
Dry bread
Arrange the fish, cut into serving-sized pieces, in a large saucepan and cover with the potatoes. Add the tomatoes, onion, and garlic — all peeled and finely chopped. Add the seasonings — salt, pepper, and herbs. Pour the olive oil on this and add enough boiling water to cover. Boil quickly for 20 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Pour the broth into dishes over slices of dry bread — toasted or not, as you wish — that have been well rubbed with garlic. Serve the fish and the potatoes on a separate plate. This recipe serves 4 to 6 people.
This dish is sometimes served with what is called “rouille,” which is not a sauce, but more of a condiment.
Rouille
In a mortar, pound 4 cloves garlic, 2 small red peppers, 2 tablespoons bread crumbs, and a little bouillon; stir in 2 tablespoons olive oil. For color, one may add a little tomato paste and paprika. If too thick, add a little more bouillon. The