James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [18]
It is my opinion that cioppino is a result of the various Mediterranean cuisines that met on the shores of California.
SOLIANKA
This rather interesting stew is found often in the Northwest where it was introduced by the White Russians, who arrived via China after the Russian Revolution. It is particularly suited to this part of the country, where salmon abound.
2 pounds fish bones and heads, or 2 pounds bony fish, with head
11/2 quarts water
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 large, ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
3 tablespoons butter
11/2 pounds salmon, cut in strips
1 tablespoon each of chopped black olives and chopped green olives
4 dill pickles, finely chopped
2 teaspoons capers
2 onions, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
4 tablespoons additional butter
Chopped parsley, additional chopped olives, and lemon slices, for garnish
Cook the fish bones and heads in the water, seasoned with salt and pepper, for 11/2 hours. Drain off the broth and reserve. Simmer the tomatoes in butter for 15 minutes. Season to taste. Arrange the salmon strips in a deep pot with the onions, pickles, tomatoes, capers, and chopped olives. Cover with the fish broth, add the bay leaf, and simmer 12 to 15 minutes. Add 4 tablespoons of butter. Serve in bowls, garnished with chopped olives, chopped parsley, and lemon slices.
NOTE: A tablespoon or more of chopped fresh dill or two teaspoons dill weed make this a most appetizing soup with another accent.
RUSSIAN FISH STEW
1 pound flounder or sole
1 pound pike
1/2 lemon
6 potatoes cut in 1/2-inch slices
3 large onions, sliced
2 carrots cut in fine julienne
2 quarts water
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Paprika
Slice the fish in serving-sized pieces. Cover them with lemon juice and place in the refrigerator for several hours.
Prepare a bouillon with the vegetables, water, and seasonings. Cook for nearly an hour. Add the fish and simmer for about 15 minutes. Serve very hot.
UKHA
2 quarts water
Bouquet garni (leek, celery, carrot, onions, bay leaf, thyme)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 pint white wine
2 pounds carp
1 pound pike
1 pound eel
Lemon juice
Croutons
Garlic-flavored oil or butter
Combine the water, bouquet garni, and seasonings and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the wine and the carp and simmer until the fish begins to fall apart — about 35 to 40 minutes. Strain and force the fish and the seasonings through a fine sieve. Return the broth to the pan and bring it to a boil. Add the pike and eel cut into small serving-sized pieces. Simmer for 15 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add lemon juice (about 4 tablespoons) just before serving. Serve with croutons fried in garlic-flavored oil or butter.
MATELOTE OF EELS NORMANDIE
Mirepoix (see page 20)
2 pounds eel
11/2 cups cider
Parsley
Tarragon
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
2 egg yolks
1/2 cup cream
Fresh sorrel (if available) or lemon juice
12 small onions
Butter
Fried croutons
Prepare a mirepoix and put it at the bottom of a large saucepan. Cut the eel into serving-sized pieces and place it on top. Add the cider, parsley, tarragon, and salt. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 20 minutes. Remove the eel to a hot platter and keep hot.
Reduce the bouillon to 1 cup. Strain. Melt the butter in a saucepan or double boiler and blend in the flour. Add the bouillon gradually, stirring constantly, until the sauce is thick and smooth. Remove from the heat and add the egg yolks and cream; stir until well blended and taste for seasoning. If available, add a few leaves of chopped sorrel — or a good squeeze of lemon juice. Pour the sauce over the eels and surround with small white onions that have been browned in butter and steamed until tender. Serve fried croutons, or slices of bread fried in butter and flavored, if you wish,