James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [20]
SOUPE DE POISSON À LA MARSEILLAISE
4 quarts of rockfish (sea bass, blackfish, etc.)
1 cup olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 large onions, grated or finely chopped
20 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1/2 pound vermicelli
1 pinch saffron
1/2 pound grated Swiss cheese
Clean and wash the fish (no scaling is necessary) and cook it in 3/4 cup of the olive oil, stirring often to prevent burning and to flake the fish. When the fish is reduced to pieces, fill the pot with water, add salt and pepper to taste, and cook as long as you deem it necessary in order to extract all the flavor.
In another pot, put the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil and cook the onions until they are soft (not brown). Add the tomatoes and cook for 15 minutes.
Strain the fish through a fine mesh strainer or squeeze it through a piece of cloth. Add the resulting broth to the vegetables and bring to a boil. Add 1/2 pound of medium-sized vermicelli, cut small, and when almost cooked, add a pinch of saffron. Let it simmer for a few minutes. This should give 8 quarts of soup. When serving, sprinkle each bowl with grated Swiss cheese.
Toasted fried bread and rouille (page 44) are good accompaniments.
CLAM CHOWDER
This, among fish soups, is my oldest love. It was the first fish soup I ever had and it has remained my favorite through the years. It can be made with either the minced razor clams of the Pacific Coast or the littlenecks of the East Coast.
With the littlenecks: Place 1 quart of clams in a saucepan with a little white wine or water. Cover and steam until they open. Pour off the liquid and strain it. Remove the clams from their shells and set aside. If you use the minced razor clams (fresh or canned), you will need about 11/2 cups of clams, drained. Save the broth, of course.
3 or 4 slices salt pork or bacon, cut in fine pieces
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 medium potatoes
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 cups light cream
Clams (about 11/2 cups, drained) and clam liquor
Thyme
Paprika
Chopped parsley
Try out the salt pork or bacon. Remove it when it is crisp, and lightly brown the onion.
Peel and dice the potatoes and cook them in boiling water until just tender. Take them out and let the water cook down a bit. Combine the bacon, onion, potato, and potato water in a saucepan, and add the clam juice. Bring this to a boil and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Season to taste. Add, gradually, the cream, and when it has just come to the boiling point, add the clams. Just let them heat through. Sprinkle with the merest pinch of finely rubbed thyme.
Serve in heated cups with a dash of paprika and a little chopped parsley.
VARIATION
You may add more clam broth and use milk instead of cream. The result is a lighter, less hearty soup.
MANHATTAN CLAM CHOWDER
3 dozen medium cherrystone clams, shucked (with 2 to 3 cups reserved liquor)
1/2 cup onions, chopped
1/2 cup green pepper, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
4 thick slices bacon, crisp-fried and coarsely crumbled (bacon drippings reserved)
1 can (16 ounces) stewed tomatoes
1/2 cup cooked rice
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1/4 teaspoon oregano
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Parsley
Strain clams, reserving liquid, and chop finely. Sauté onion, green pepper, and garlic in 3 tablespoons of the reserved bacon fat until tender but not browned. Add reserved clam liquid, tomatoes, rice, thyme, and oregano. Season to taste. Simmer 5 minutes. Just before serving, add the chopped clams and bring to a boil. Garnish with crumbled bacon and parsley.
WIN’S CLAM CHOWDER
This rich and unusual version of New England clam chowder is the recipe of Irwin Chase, an excellent Yankee cook.
1/4 pound salt pork
2 medium onions, finely chopped
1 green pepper, finely chopped
6 medium potatoes
1 pint quahogs or other clams, chopped, with liquid
2 tablespoons salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon