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VARIATIONS

1. Sauté whole slices of orange, peel and all, with the fish and serve as a garnish.

2. Add 1 teaspoon of tarragon to the pan and rinse it with 1/4 cup of white wine. Pour over the fish.

BUTTERFISH EN PAPILLOTE

Butterfish (1 per serving)

Cooking parchment

Ham slices (1 per serving)

Anchovy butter

Grated onion

Butter

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Thick tomato paste

Chopped parsley

Cut heart-shaped pieces of cooking parchment big enough to accommodate the fish. On each piece of parchment, place a slice of ham near one edge. Spread it with anchovy butter and a little grated onion. Top with a butterfish, dot with butter, season with salt and pepper, add a teaspoon of tomato paste, and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Fold the other side of the parchment over this and crimp the edges together so that they are tightly sealed. Bake at 425° according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 8).

SMOKED BUTTERFISH

Smoked butterfish is found in many delicatessens and fish shops. It is delicate and very pleasant. Try it as a first course for dinner or as a light luncheon dish. Serve it with lemon, a sprinkling of capers if you like, or chopped onion.

California Black Sea Bass

This Pacific Coast fish is sometimes called the jewfish, but it is not the same as the Florida jewfish or giant sea bass. It is a good game fish and is sold to a certain extent for food. The flesh is flaky, white, and well flavored. The fish is large, weighing as much as 700 to 800 pounds, and is usually sold as steaks or fillets.

Two smaller fish, the cabrilla and the grouper, are sold in fillets in California markets as “golden bass.” The rock bass, averaging about 18 inches in length, is popular in the West both as a game and a commercial fish.

BROILED CALIFORNIA SEA BASS

Follow directions for broiling, pages 9–10.

SEA BASS FILLETS PACIFIC

See recipe on page 215.

BAKED CALIFORNIA SEA BASS

Follow directions for baking on page 8.

BARBECUED SEA BASS STEAKS CALIFORNIA

1/4 cup melted butter

2 tablespoons soy sauce

Juice of 1 lemon

2 ounces whiskey or brandy

1 clove garlic, crushed

2 pounds sea bass steak

1/2 cup sesame seeds

Lemon or lime wedges

Prepare a basting sauce with the butter, soy sauce, lemon juice, liquor, and garlic. Brush the steaks with this, place them in an oiled hinged grill, and cook over a charcoal fire according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 9), basting often and turning. When nearly done, sprinkle heavily with sesame seeds and continue cooking until the seeds are toasted. Serve with lemon or lime wedges.

JEWFISH STEAKS TROPICAL

3 cups toasted crumbs

2 tablespoons chili powder

2 teaspoons paprika

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon oregano

3 eggs

4 tablespoons heavy cream

6 to 8 rashers bacon

1 clove garlic

3 pounds jewfish steaks

Flour

Roll the crumbs fine and combine with the chili powder, paprika, salt, and oregano. Beat the eggs lightly and add the cream. Try out the bacon and add the garlic to the bacon fat. When the bacon is crisp, remove it to absorbent paper. Brush the fish steaks with flour, dip them in the eggs and cream, and then cover them thoroughly with the crumb mixture. Sauté them gently in the bacon fat according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10). Serve with tomato sauce (page 23) and a bacon garnish.

California Kingfish

In order to avoid confusion, I must resort here to Latin: the California kingfish is a Genyonemus lineatus, which means that it is a different fish from the East Coast fish, which is a Scomberomorus Cavalla and closely resembles the Spanish mackerel (page 261). The West Coast fish is sometimes mistaken for tomcod, a similar fish.

California kingfish range from about 3/4 to 11/4 pounds and are usually eaten whole. The meat is excellent.

BROILED CALIFORNIA KINGFISH

Broil the fish whole or split, according to the directions on pages 9–10.

FRENCH-FRIED CALIFORNIA