James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [35]
PAN-FRIED EELS
First, the eels must be skinned. The traditional method is to nail the head of the eel to a wall and then skin it with one full sweep of the hand. You may also cut the eel skin around the head, and peel it back very slowly. You may need the aid of pliers to get it started. Once the eels are skinned, remove the intestines, wash the fish, and cut them into 3-inch pieces. Dip these in flour and sauté them in butter or oil until delicately browned. Season to taste and serve plain or with tartar sauce (pages 35–36).
EELS SAUTÉ PROVENÇALE
2 large eels or several small ones
Flour
6 tablespoons olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Skin and clean the eels, cut in 3-inch pieces, and dredge with flour. Heat the olive oil in a skillet and sauté the pieces of eel quickly according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10). When they are done, season to taste and add the garlic, and parsley. Toss them about in the pan for a minute or two. Serve the eel with the garlic and parsley poured over the top.
EELS NAPOLITANA
2 or 3 large eels
2 cups browned crumbs
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
11/2 teaspoons sugar
Flour
Beaten egg
Butter
Lemon wedges
Skin and wash the eels and cut into pieces. Mix the crumbs, salt, cinnamon, and sugar. Dip the eels in flour, then the beaten egg, and finally in the crumb mixture. Sauté quickly in butter according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10). Serve with lemon wedges.
NOTE: The traditional way of preparing this dish is to tie the eel on a spit and roast it in front of the fire, basting it with its own juices. However, this is a little involved for most people.
EELS COMMACHIO
The Italians, like many Europeans, are very fond of eels. In fact, true international gourmets find it difficult to understand why Americans neglect this delicious fish. Here is a famous Italian recipe that does justice to it.
6 eels
1/2 cup olive oil
1 large onion, sliced fine
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sage
1 cup tomato paste
1 cup white wine
Skin and clean the eels and cut them in 3-inch lengths. Heat the olive oil in a skillet. Add the onion, sage, and the pieces of eel. Sauté according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10) until nicely browned. Season to taste; add the tomato paste and white wine. Cover and simmer until the eel is tender. Serve with rice baked in broth.
MATELOTE OF EELS NORMANDIE
See pages 51–52.
MATELOTE PROVENÇALE
This is prepared in the same way as the preceding recipe, except that white wine and water (half and half) are used in place of cider and 3 cloves of garlic are added. Sautéed mushroom caps are used as garnish along with the onions and croutons.
OLD-FASHIONED NEW ENGLAND EEL STIFLE
6 eels
6 fairly large potatoes, peeled and sliced
4 large onions, peeled and sliced
Freshly ground black pepper
Flour
Salt pork
Butter
Skin and clean the eels and cut them into 4-inch lengths. In a buttered baking dish or casserole, place a layer of the potatoes, a layer of the onions, and a layer of eels. Sprinkle each layer lightly with pepper and flour. Cover the top with small bits of salt pork, dot with butter, and add almost enough water to cover. Cover and bake at 375° until tender, approximately 45 to 50 minutes, or cook slowly on top of the stove until done.
EELS BORDELAISE
This dish is usually made with the lampreys caught near Bordeaux. It is a specialty of the house in one of the famous restaurants in Saint émilion, where some of the finest wines of that district are used to prepare the food, and, of course, are drunk with it. Strangely enough, Saint émilion is famous for another gastronomic delight — macaroons.
3 pounds eels
Carrot, thinly sliced
Onion, thinly sliced
1 clove garlic
Pinch thyme
1 leaf and stalk of celery
Several sprigs parsley
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt