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The grunion “run” can be forecast from year to year, and the seasonal sport of gathering them has many followers on the West Coast. I have never encountered grunions on the Atlantic seaboard. The fish is small, delicate, and flavorful, and somewhat resembles the smelt.

BROILED GRUNIONS

Clean the fish, dip them in flour, dot well with butter, and broil under a hot flame according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10). Brush with oil or butter during the cooking process. Season to taste and serve with a tartar sauce (pages 35–36).

FRIED GRUNIONS

Here are grunions at their best.

Heat the fat in your French fryer to 375°. Clean the fish, dip them in flour, then in beaten egg, and roll them in corn meal. Fry according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 11) until brown and crisp. Drain on absorbent paper and season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Serve with lemon butter or parsley butter and lemon quarters.

Haddock

The haddock and the cod are close relatives, but you can easily tell them apart once you have seen them side by side in the market. The haddock is usually smaller, the average market fish weighing about 21/2 to 3 pounds; its mouth is smaller than that of the cod; and it has a black, rather than a whitish, lateral line.

A great deal of haddock is sold in fillets, either fresh or frozen, and like ocean perch and cod, it is shipped frozen all over the country. Americans now consume over one hundred million pounds of haddock a year.

Finnan haddie — or smoked haddock — is an extremely popular dish of Scottish origin. Years ago it was known as Findon haddock, after the Scottish fishing port of Findon.

Fresh Haddock

BROILED HADDOCK

See directions for broiling fish, pages 9–10.

SAUTÉED HADDOCK

See directions for sauté meunière, page 10. For fillets, see recipes for ocean perch, pages 154–159.

FRIED HADDOCK

See directions for frying fish and fillets, page 11.

HADDOCK TURBANS WITH LEMON SAUCE

6 haddock fillets

1/2 pound shrimp

Fresh dill

Parsley

Court bouillon

Sauce velouté (page 21)

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Place one or two shelled, uncooked shrimp on each fillet and a little fresh dill and parsley. Roll the fillets and secure with toothpicks. Poach them in court bouillon according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 12). Remove to a hot serving dish. Reduce the stock, prepare the sauce velouté, and add the lemon juice at the last minute. Pour the sauce over the fillets.

HADDOCK FILLETS VéRONIQUE

6 haddock fillets

Court bouillon (page 18)

White wine

Sauce velouté (page 21)

1/2 cup white seedless grapes

Half-whipped cream

Poach the fillets in court bouillon and white wine according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 12). Arrange them in a shallow baking dish. Make a sauce velouté with the bouillon and some heavy cream and add the grapes. Pour this over the fillets. Dribble a little half-whipped cream on top, and run under the broiler for a minute or two to give it a glaze.

FILLETS OF HADDOCK IN CREAM SAUCE

Sauce béchamel (page 23)

2 tablespoons sherry or Madeira

Fresh fennel or fennel seeds

6 haddock fillets

Chopped parsley

Prepare the béchamel and flavor it with sherry or Madeira and the fennel or fennel seeds. Place the fillets in a flat baking dish and pour the sauce over them. Bake at 425°–450° according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 8). Remove and sprinkle liberally with chopped parsley. Serve with crisp fried potatoes and a cucumber salad.

BAKED HADDOCK FILLETS IN WHITE WINE AND TARRAGON

6 haddock fillets

Fresh or dried tarragon

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

11/2 cups white wine

Butter

1/2 cup heavy cream

3 egg yolks

Arrange the fillets in a shallow baking dish and sprinkle liberally with tarragon. Salt and pepper to taste. Add the wine and dot with butter. Bake at 425°–450° according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 8). Remove fish to a hot platter. Reduce the wine to 3/4 cup and combine with the cream mixed