James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [4]
BROILING – CHARCOAL GRILLING
There is no doubt about it – fish grilled over charcoal has an entirely “different” flavor. Use a hinged grill so the fish will stay in place, and be sure the grill is hot and well oiled when you put the fish into it – it should be hot enough to mark the fish.
Whether whole, half fillets, or steaks, the fish should be well floured and oiled before grilling and should be brushed well with oil several times during the cooking process. Steaks or fillets without skin will need more lubrication than whole fish. Allow 10 minutes cooking time per inch thickness for fresh fish, and 20 minutes cooking time per inch thickness for frozen fish.
OVEN BROILING
Measure the thickness of the fish or pieces of fish and place them on the oiled rack of a broiling pan. Baste with melted fat or basting sauce. Place the broiling pan in a preheated oven, so that the fish is approximately 2 to 4 inches from the heating unit. If fish is frozen, it will have to be placed lower in the oven to prevent overcooking the surface before the interior is cooked. Leave the door ajar if using an electric oven, unless the manufacturer’s directions state otherwise. When fish has browned on one side, turn. Brush with melted fat again. The total cooking time should be 10 minutes per inch thickness for fresh fish, and 20 minutes cooking time per inch thickness for frozen fish. Cuts of fish 3/4 to 1 inch have less tendency to dry out during broiling than thinner cuts. Thin cuts of fish may be broiled without turning.
Fillets: Flour the fillets and rub them well with butter, oil, or other fat. Place them about 2 inches from the heat and baste them once or twice during the cooking process. Do not turn them. Allow 10 minutes cooking time per inch of thickness.
Steaks: Dust the steaks with flour and dot them well with butter or brush them with oil. Place them on the oiled rack or flat pan about 2 inches from the heat. Steaks should be turned once during the broiling, and it is wise to allow more of the cooking time after the turning than before; then the serving side will have a nice brown color. Baste once or twice, and be sure to give the steaks an extra basting after you turn them to help them brown well. Season steaks after removing from the broiler. Allow 10 minutes cooking time per inch of thickness or fraction thereof.
Split fish: You may split fish at home or have the fish dealer do it for you. I like a fish broiled with its backbone intact – it seems to make a difference in the juiciness and the flavor. Place the fish skin side down on the oiled broiling rack or in a separate pan. Dust it with flour and dot it heavily with butter or brush it with oil. Broil it 2 to 3 inches from the heat. Very delicately meated fish, such as carp, pike, and whitefish, should be placed a bit farther away. Baste it several times during the cooking and be sure you do not turn it. Allow 10 minutes cooking time per inch of thickness. Season the split fish after cooking.
Whole fish: A whole fish with the head on will be much juicier than one without the head. Dust the fish with flour, and butter or oil it well on one side. (Oil the second side after turning.) Place smaller fish about 3 inches from the heat, larger ones about 6 inches away. Allow 10 minutes cooking time per inch of thickness, turning once. Fluke, flounder, and sole are usually not turned. Baste often and season after cooking.
PAN FRYING OR SAUTÉING (SAUTÉ MEUNIÈRE)
If necessary, cut fish into serving-sized pieces. Prepare as directed by your recipe. Heat 1/4 inch of melted butter or oil or a combination of butter and oil in a frying pan. Have it very