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Sablefish

Sometimes miscalled Alaska black cod, sablefish is an extraordinarily good Pacific Coast fish that has been greatly neglected. It has a peculiar gelatinous fat — I find it delicate and very tasty.

Especially when it is kippered or smoked, the sablefish has few rivals. The smoked meat can be eaten raw or may be cooked in various fashions.

The fish is sold whole, in steaks and fillets, and in cured forms.

BROILED SABLEFISH

You may broil the whole fish, steaks, or fillets. Brush the fish well with oil and follow the directions for broiling on pages 9–10. Serve with lemon butter (page 31), white wine sauce (page 23), or mustard sauce (page 23).

DEVILED SABLEFISH

Broil sablefish steaks until not quite done. Press crisp buttered crumbs on top and finish cooking, browning the crumbs well. Serve with sauce diable (page 29).

SAUTÉED SABLEFISH

Use steaks or fillets. Flour the fish well and sauté according to the directions on page 10. Serve with lemon butter (page 31) or lemon quarters.

SABLEFISH À L’ANGLAISE

Dip sablefish steaks or fillets into flour, then into beaten egg, and roll in crumbs. Sauté in butter according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10). Serve with sauce soubise (page 22) or a tomato sauce with curry added (page 23).

BAKED SABLEFISH

Bake the whole fish, a section of the fish, or steaks. Place the fish on an oiled baking dish, dot with butter, and season with salt and pepper. Bake at 450° according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 8).

KIPPERED SABLEFISH

You may eat the kippered fish plain or use it in any of the recipes given for finnan haddie (pages 120–122).

BAKED SABLEFISH CREOLE

When I was a child we often had this fish with an imitation Creole sauce.

2-to-3-pound piece of sablefish

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2/3 cup red wine

2 medium onions, chopped

1 or 2 cloves garlic, chopped

6 tablespoons butter

6 to 8 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

Chopped parsley

Place the fish in an oiled baking dish, season, and add the wine. Bake at 425° according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 8), basting with the wine frequently.

Sauté the onions and garlic in butter until they are just soft. Add the tomatoes and simmer until the mixture is thoroughly soft and well blended. Season to taste and serve poured around the fish. Top with chopped parsley.

POACHED SABLEFISH

Poach the fish in boiling salted water or in a highly seasoned court bouillon (page 18). Serve with Hollandaise sauce (pages 25–26), sauce Mornay (page 22), white wine sauce (page 23), shrimp sauce (page 21), or oyster sauce (page 21).

CURRIED SABLEFISH

Poach sablefish and arrange it on a bed of rice. Serve with curry sauce prepared from the bouillon (page 18). Pass chutney and crisp French-fried onions.

SMOKED SABLEFISH

Serve the smoked fish as you would smoked salmon (pages 203–205).

BROILED SMOKED SABLEFISH

Brush with oil and broil as you would fresh sablefish. Serve with lemon quarters.

SMOKED SABLEFISH IN CREAM

Smoked sablefish

13/4 cups thick cream

3 egg yolks

Dash of lemon juice

Freshly ground black pepper

Chopped parsley

Remove the skin and arrange the fish in a gratin dish or oval baking dish. Put the fish in a 250° oven to heat while you are making a heavy cream sauce.

Pour 11/2 cups of the thick cream in a pan and let it come just to a boil. Remove it from the stove and gradually stir in 3 egg yolks beaten with the remaining 1/4 cup heavy cream. Place it over low heat and stir until thickened, but do not let it boil. Add a dash of lemon juice.

Pour this sauce over the fish, sprinkle with pepper and chopped parsley, and run under the broiler to glaze.

VARIATION

Sprinkle with grated Swiss cheese before running under the broiler.

Salmon

Salmon has an international reputation, richly deserved, as gourmet food. Like beef, it is also popular among people of plain taste, and it is eaten even by some members of that minority of