James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [7]
Some of the most expensive Rhine wines are exceedingly rich and sweet, and these, of course, are not congenial with fish. German wines labeled Auslese (selected picking of the grapes) and Spätlese (late picked) tend to be dryish.
AMERICAN WINES
The white wines produced in the United States must be judged and enjoyed in proper perspective. In the last ten years they have increased in stature and in quality and are now equal to fine white wines in any country of the world. American wine is interesting, varied, and delicious and goes especially well with fish dishes. Their prices do not differ much from those of imported wines, but in many communities one finds inexpensive and good American wines that are perfectly reasonable table wines.
There are some interesting wines in New York State and there are great developments in Oregon and Washington and in many other states, but we find the greatest number of available wines from California. The best ones are named for their variety, such as Johannisburg Riesling, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sylvaner, Traminer, and Gewurztraminer. Most of these come from the counties around San Francisco Bay and the Livermore, Napa, Sonoma, and Santa Clara valleys. These geographic names are also generally clues to quality.
The native wines of New York are distinctly different from those of California. There has been a great deal of work done with hybrid grapes to banish the rather foxy, or grapy, flavor that was distinctive to the wines of New York State and one finds some excellent white wines coming along.
The same varietals that are used in California are used to great advantage in Oregon and Washington. If you find them, give them a sampling.
With American wines, it’s true that the label describes what you’re buying. Varietal wines are tops, although there are some bulk bottled wines called Chablis or Rhine wines that are not too bad and should be tasted. They can be considered as everyday table wines, to be enjoyed without spending a great deal of money. If in doubt, consult your wine merchant or the many books that have recently been published on American wines.
ITALIAN WINES
Italian wines have become more and more popular in this country within the last ten to twelve years. We have some deliciously simple, rather romantic wines such as Verdicchio. Also good are the white Chiantis, red and white Corvo, and red and white Orvieto. Italian wines are generally not as distinguished as French ones, nor are they always as good as fine American wines, but they’re gay, enjoyable wines to drink, especially in the summer and they lend themselves to fish beautifully. If you eat cold fish or take fish on a picnic, remember good Italian wines.
OTHER WINES
There are some very interesting wines from Hungary and Yugoslavia that use the same varietals as the Rieslings and Pinot Chardonnays of California, France, and Italy. Some of them are excellent buys and offer great drinking pleasure. Don’t be afraid to experiment.
Court Bouillons and Essences of Fish
Fish differs greatly in flavor, texture, gelatinous content, and delicacy of meat. Some fish and shellfish need strong bouillon to bring out and complement their flavors. Others have such distinctive flavors in themselves that they need practically nothing to enhance them.
SIMPLE COURT BOUILLON I
Sea bass, striped bass, red snapper, and other similar fish should be poached in a simple salt and water bouillon. They have distinction