James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [89]
JELLIED FILLETS WITH TARRAGON
8 fillets of sole
Fish forcemeat (page 41)
Fresh tarragon leaves
White wine court bouillon (pages 19–20)
Egg white
2 envelopes gelatin
3 to 4 cups salade Russe (page 372)
Green mayonnaise
Small tomatoes
Sliced cucumbers
Sauce verte (page 34)
Spread the fillets with the highly seasoned forcemeat and tarragon leaves. Roll and secure with toothpicks. Poach in court bouillon according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 12). Chill. Reduce the bouillon, strain, and clarify with egg white (page 18). Melt the gelatin in 1/2 cup of cold water and combine with the boiling bouillon. Cool until thick but not solid. Pour the jelly into eight small molds or one large mold and place in the refrigerator to chill until a thin layer has formed on the bottom and sides. Pour off the rest of the jelly and arrange the fillets, topped with additional tarragon leaves, in the mold. Pour the rest of the jelly over this and chill until firm. Arrange the molds of fillets on a platter with a mound of salade Russe in the center. Surround with tiny tomatoes and cucumber slices. Serve with sauce verte.
WHEEL OF SOLES
This is another spectacular buffet dish. The fillets are arranged in the form of a wheel around a mound of salade Orientale and coated with a mayonnaise colée.
12 fillets of sole
Court bouillon (page 18)
Egg white
2 envelopes gelatin
2 cups mayonnaise (and a little extra)
Chopped parsley
Hard-cooked eggs
Chopped onion
Chili sauce
Salade Orientale
5 cups cold cooked rice
12 chopped anchovies
1/2 cup chopped parsley
1 cup chopped green onion
1/2 cup chopped pimiento
Sauce vinaigrette (page 36) mixed with 1/4 cup chili sauce
Trim the fillets until they are of equal size and are each pointed at one end. Poach them in court bouillon according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 12). With a spatula (or with a pair of them) remove the fish carefully to a platter to cool. Reduce the bouillon to 3 cups, strain, and clarify with egg white (page 18). Dissolve the gelatin in 1/2 cup of cold water and add to the boiling bouillon. Cool. When it is syrupy, combine 2 cups of the jelly with an equal amount of thick mayonnaise. Chill.
Combine the ingredients for the salade Orientale and chill. When ready to serve, mound the salad in the center of a large serving platter, arrange the fillets in the form of a wheel, and spoon the mayonnaise colée (jellied mayonnaise) over them. Sprinkle the fillets heavily with chopped parsley.
Halve each hard-cooked egg horizontally and remove the yolk. Mash it and mix with a little mayonnaise, some chopped parsley, chopped onions, and a dash of chili sauce. Fill the egg whites with this mixture piped through a pastry tube. Decorate the platter with the stuffed eggs in the center and between the fillets.
No additional dressing is needed for this dish, but you may serve a bowl of mayonnaise with it if you wish.
Spanish Mackerel
The ichthyologist Mitchell, writing in 1815 in his Fishes of New York, gave the Spanish mackerel this brief but favorable biography: “A fine and beautiful fish; comes in July.”
The Spanish mackerel is a handsome wanderer. It loves the warm seas of the south, and in the summer it migrates to the cool northern waters. Then it heads south again before cold weather sets in. Smart fish.
A fine sport, Spanish mackerel gives a good battle. It is vigorous and sometimes grows to 50 to 75 pounds in weight. In the markets, however, the average weight of the fish