James Beard's New Fish Cookery - James Beard [93]
STRIPED BASS SALAD
Poach 3 pounds of striped bass fillets in boiling salted water according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 12). Dice the cooked fillets or flake with a fork. Combine with 1 cup of finely chopped celery and 1 cup of mayonnaise or Russian dressing. Arrange on a bed of watercress. Decorate with additional mayonnaise, quartered hard-cooked eggs, strips of pimiento, green pepper, and ripe olives.
Sturgeon
This fine fish used to be plentiful on the West Coast, in the Great Lakes, and in some Eastern rivers. Now it is scarce indeed. Fishing for sturgeon is prohibited by law in many states, and you will rarely see a freshly caught specimen in the market. Its scarcity is a pity, for besides being delicious in itself, the American sturgeon is a source of excellent caviar.
Of all varieties, including the giants of the Columbia and Sacramento rivers, none compares in flavor and texture to the lake sturgeon. A considerable amount of smoked sturgeon is sold throughout the country. It is very expensive, but when you buy it you may console yourself with the thought that you are paying for a great delicacy.
BRAISED STURGEON
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 carrots, finely chopped
2 stalks of celery, finely chopped
4 sprigs of parsley, finely chopped
A pinch of thyme
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
9 tablespoons butter
A few mushroom stems or peelings
11/2 cups white wine
5-to-6-pound piece of sturgeon
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons freshly grated horseradish
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons vinegar
Combine the onion, carrots, celery, parsley, thyme, salt and pepper to taste, and sauté in 6 tablespoons of the butter until soft. Transfer to a large braising pan or Dutch oven. Add the pan juices, the mushroom stems or peelings, and the wine. On a rack over this arrange the sturgeon and steam it in a 350° oven for about 1 hour. The container– braising pan or Dutch oven – must be sealed tightly. When the fish is cooked remove it to a hot platter and baste with the liquid from the pan.
Now, put the pan juices and the vegetables through a food mill, a fine sieve, or a food processor. Add 3 tablespoons of butter, the horseradish, and the sugar dissolved in the vinegar. Blend thoroughly, taste for seasoning, and pour over the fish. Serve with wild rice and mushrooms.
STURGEON SCANDINAVIAN
5-pound cut of sturgeon
Anchovy fillets
Bacon
White wine court bouillon (pages 19–20)
Beurre manié (page 475)
1 tablespoon anchovy paste
1/4 cup finely chopped sour pickles
Bone the sturgeon and replace the bone with anchovy fillets and pieces of bacon. Tie the fish securely.
Prepare the bouillon and soak the fish in it for 2 hours. Bring it to a boil. Remove all to a 425° oven and bake according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 8). Put the fish on a hot platter. Strain the sauce, reduce by two-thirds, and thicken with beurre manié. Add the anchovy paste and the pickles. Pour the sauce over the fish.
STURGEON STEAK SAUTÉ MEUNIÈRE
Dip sturgeon steaks in flour and season them with salt and freshly ground black pepper. For every 2 pounds of steak, melt 4 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet. Sauté the steaks gently according to the Canadian cooking theory (page 10), browning them nicely on both sides. Baste with butter during the process. Remove the fish to a hot platter and pour the butter over it. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve with lemon wedges and Béarnaise sauce (page 26).
BRAISED STURGEON, SWEET AND SOUR
4-pound piece of sturgeon
Larding pork
3 onions, sliced thin
3 carrots, sliced thin
2 cups white wine
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Bouquet