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Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [123]

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as Vuitton, Comme les Garçons and Prada, line Omote-sandō; Ura-Hara (the Harajuku backstreets) is where the small boutiques and studios represent the indie designers. Wander the alleys snaking off either side of Omote-sandō and check out the boutiques and second-hand shops. Farther south, Aoyama (Map) caters to more sophisticated mainstream (and expensive) tastes.

Department stores like Laforet (Map; 3475-0411; 1-11-6 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; 11am-8pm; Chiyoda line to Meiji-jingūmae, exit 5) or the Shibuya 109 building (Ichimarukyū; Map; 3477-5111; 2-29-1 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; 10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-10.30pm Sat & Sun; JR Yamanote line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) are good places to dig up the latest hot look you’re seeing on the chic young things strutting around town. Daikanyama (Map) is another wonderfully stylish neighbourhood in which to admire the locals’ individualistic senses of fashion, and shop the boutiques of budding and established fashion designers.

If unexpected changes in weather mean that you’ve packed all the wrong clothes, pop into Uniqlo (Map; 3569-6781; 5-7-7 Ginza, Chūō-ku; 11am-9pm; Ginza, Hibiya, Marunouchi lines to Ginza, exits A2 & A3), full of inexpensive Gap-like basics for men, women and children. This flagship store is in Ginza, but there are branches all over Tokyo.

Department Stores

Tokyo’s big depāto (department stores), opulent shrines to consumerism, are worth a look for sheer scale and inventory. Department stores close at least one day each month, usually a Monday or Wednesday. Some of the best things about them are not necessarily the wares, but the eats – with their rooftop beer gardens, resutoran-gai and elaborately stocked depachika. Following is a necessarily selective list of depāto in Tokyo.

Isetan (Map; 3352-1111; 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; 10am-8pm; Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku lines to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit A1) In addition to having a stunning food basement, Isetan offers a free service called I-club, matching English-speaking staff to visiting shoppers; the membership desk is on the 6th floor of the main Isetan building.

Keiō (Map; 3342-2111; 1-1-4 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; 10am-8pm, closed some Thu; JR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, west exit) Opens its rooftop beer garden during the summer.

Marui (Map; 3354-0101; 3-18-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; 11am-9pm; JR Yamanote line to Shinjuku, east exit) Targeted toward a younger audience, with unmistakable presences in Shinjuku and Shibuya.Matsuya (Map; 3567-1211; 3-6-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku; 10.30am-7.30pm; Ginza, Hibiya, Marunouchi lines to Ginza, exits A12 & A13) Also opens its beer garden during the summer and has a good depachika.

Matsuzakaya (Map; 3572-1111; 6-10-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku; 10am-7.30pm Sun-Wed, to 8pm Thu-Sat; Ginza, Hibiya, Marunouchi lines to Ginza, exit A3) How many department stores besides this one can say they’ve been around for almost 400 years?

Mitsukoshi (Map; 3562-1111; 4-6-16 Ginza, Chūō-ku; 10am-8pm; Ginza, Hibiya, Marunouchi lines to Ginza, exits A7 & A11) Look for the Mitsukoshi lion at the corner entrance at this Ginza stalwart.

Takashimaya (Map; 3211-4111; 2-4-1 Nihombashi, Chūō-ku; 10am-7.30pm; Ginza, Tōzai, Toei Asakusa lines to Nihombashi, exit B1 & B2) This is one of the more venerable old establishments, where primly dressed, white-gloved attendants operate old-fashioned elevators; have a look at the rooftop patio. There’s another branch in Ginza.

Electronics

Akihabara, Tokyo’s discount electronics neighbourhood, carries a huge range of electrical appliances in a highly concentrated area – hence the nickname Denki-gai (Electric Town). While prices may be competitive with those in your home country, it’s unusual to find bargains like you would in Hong Kong or Singapore. Some larger stores (like those listed here) have tax-free departments with export models of various appliances and gadgets for sale – remember to double-check that they’re compatible with your home country’s system, and bring your passport.

Laox (Map; 3253-7111; 1-2-9 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku; 10am-9pm; JR Sōbu, Yamanote lines to

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