Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [134]
Among Taiyūin-byō’s many structures, look for dozens of lanterns donated by daimyō, and the gate Niō-mon, whose guardian deities have a hand up (to welcome those with pure hearts) and a hand down (to suppress impure hearts). Inside the main hall, 140 dragons painted on the ceiling are said to carry prayers to the heavens; those holding pearls are on their way up, and those without are returning to gather more prayers.
GAMMAN-GA-FUCHI ABYSS
If the crowds of Nikkō leave you yearning for a little quiet, take the 20-minute walk to Gamman-Ga-Fuchi Abyss, a collection of jizō statues (the small stone statues of the Buddhist protector of travellers and children) set along a wooded path. One of the statues midway along is known as the Bake-jizō, who mocks travellers foolish enough to try to count all of the jizō (they’re said to be uncountable). Take a left after crossing the Shin-kyō bridge and follow the river for about 800m, crossing another bridge en route.
NIKKŌ TAMOZAWA IMPERIAL VILLA
The 1899 Nikkō Tamozawa Goyōtei (53-6767; adult/child ¥500/250; 9am-4pm Wed-Mon) was the largest wooden imperial villa (106 rooms) in two generations of emperors, and it was where Emperor Shōwa (aka Hirohito) spent WWII. It has been painstakingly restored to its former glory and is well worth a visit. It’s about 1km west of the Shin-kyō bridge.
NIKKŌ WOODCARVING CENTER
The workshop and sales shop of Nikkō woodcarving center (53-0070; 2848 Tokorono; admission free; 9am-5pm, closed Thu Nov-Apr) have contemporary and utilitarian pieces in the local woodcarving tradition. Exhibits on the 2nd floor include yatai (festival floats) and tansu (wooden chests). You can try your own hand with a week’s notice (fax 53-0310; fee varies).
Festivals & Events
Yayoi Matsuri Procession of mikoshi held at Futarasan-jinja on 16 and 17 April.
Tōshō-gū Grand Festival Nikkō’s most important annual festival is held on 17 and 18 May and features horse-back archery on the first day and a 1000-strong costumed re-enactment of the delivery of Ieyasu’s remains to Nikkō on the second.
Tōshō-gū Autumn Festival Autumnal repeat on 16 and 17 October of the May festival, minus the equestrian archery.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Nikkō Daiyagawa Youth Hostel (/fax 54-1974; www5.ocn.ne.jp/~daiyayh; 1075 Nakahatsuishi-machi; dm ¥2730; ) This four-room, 24-bed hostel earns commendations for its hospitable hostess. It’s a four-minute walk from the Nikkō/Shishō-mae (City Hall branch office) bus stop, behind the post office and overlooking the river. Breakfast/dinner is ¥420/840.
Jōhsyū-ya Ryokan (54-0155; fax 53-2000; www.johsyu-ya.co.jp; 911 Nakahatsuishi; r per person ¥3900;) This very tidy inn on the main road beside the post office is just good honest value. No private facilities and there’s little English spoken, but there’s a hot-spring bath. Breakfast/dinner from ¥800/1500.
Nikkō Park Lodge (53-1201; fax 53-4332; www.nikkoparklodge.com; 28285 Tokorono; dm from ¥3990; ) Friendly, cute, unpretentious and well kept, with pick-up available between 3pm and 5pm. It’s mostly twin and double rooms, plus a couple of dorms, run by English-speaking Zen Buddhist monks; look for yoga classes. Breakfast/dinner is ¥395/1500.
MIDRANGE
Turtle Inn Nikkō (53-3168; fax 53-3883; www.turtle-nikko.com; 2-16 Takumi-chō; s/d without bathroom ¥4800/9000, s/d with bathroom ¥5600/10,600; ) Here you’ll find large Japanese- and Western-style rooms, some English-speaking staff and hearty meals (breakfast/dinner ¥1050/2100). Take a bus to Sōgō-kaikan-mae, backtrack about 50m, turn right along the river and walk for about five minutes; you’ll see the turtle sign on the left.
Annex Turtle Hotori-An (53-3663; fax 53-3883; www.turtle-nikko.com; 8-28 Takumi-chō; s/d ¥6500/12,400; ) The Turtle Inn’s newer Annex is a more modern, pleasant option. It has a windowed dining room (breakfast/dinner ¥1050/2100), well-tended tatami