Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [136]
JR trains connect Nikkō and Tokyo’s Shinjuku and Ikebukuro Stations (¥4310) in about two hours. Otherwise, travelling by JR is time-consuming and costly without a JR Pass. Take the shinkansen from Tokyo to Utsunomiya (¥4290, 54 minutes) and change there for an ordinary train to Nikkō (¥740, 45 minutes).
TRAIN/BUS PASSES
Tōbu Railway offers two passes covering rail transport from Asakusa to Nikkō (though not the tokkyū surcharge, from ¥1040) and unlimited hop-on-hop-off bus services around Nikkō. The All Nikko Pass (adult/child ¥4400/2210) is valid for four days and includes buses to Chūzenji-ko and Yumoto Onsen. The World Heritage Pass (Sekai-isan Meguri Pass; adult/child/junior-high student/senior-high student ¥3600/1700/3000/3200), valid for two days, includes buses to the World Heritage sights, plus admission to Tōshō-gū, Rinnō-ji and Futarasan-jinja. Purchase these passes at the Tōbu Sightseeing Service Center (8am-2.30pm) in Asakusa Station. Bus stops are announced in English.
TŌBU NIKKŌ BUS FREE PASS
If you’ve already got your rail ticket, two-day bus-only passes are available and allow unlimited rides between Nikkō and Yumoto Onsen (adult/child ¥3000/1500) or Nikkō and Chūzenji Onsen (adult/child ¥2000/1000), including the World Heritage Sites. Alternatively, the Sekai-isan-meguri (World Heritage Bus Pass; adult/child ¥500/250) covers the area between the stations and shrine precincts. Buy these at Tōbu Nikkō Station.
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AROUND NIKKŌ
Nikkō is part of the Nikkō National Park, 1402 sq km sprawling over Fukushima, Tochigi, Gunma and Niigata prefectures. This mountainous region features extinct volcanoes, lakes, waterfalls and marshlands. There are good hiking opportunities and some remote hot-spring resorts.
Edo Wonderland
Thirty minutes by bus from Nikkō is Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura, a kitschy but fun theme park (0288-77-1777; www.edowonderland.net; half-day pass adult/child ¥3900/2000; 9am-5pm Thu-Tue 20 Mar-30 Nov, 9.30am-4pm 1 Dec-19 Mar, closed 25 Jan-7 Feb; ) where kids can watch ninjas battle, geishas strut and magicians astound in a re-created town of the Edo period. There are three free shuttle buses daily from JR Nikkō Station.
Yashio-no-yu Onsen
A 5km bus ride from central Nikkō, this modern onsen (0288-53-6611; adult/child ¥500/300; 10am-8.30pm Fri-Wed) has various baths including a rotemburo (outdoor bath). Take a Chūzenji-bound bus from either train station in Nikkō and get off at the Kiyotaki Itchōme stop. The onsen is across the river from the bus stop; walk back towards Nikkō, under the Rte 120 bypass and across the bridge.
Chūzenji-ko
This highland area 11.5km west of Nikkō offers some natural seclusion and striking views of Nantai-san (2484m) from Chūzenji-ko lake. The big-ticket attraction is the billowing, 97m-high Kegon-no-taki (Kegon falls; ; 0288-55-0030; adult/child return ¥530/320; 7.30am-6pm May-Sep, 9am-4.30pm Dec-Feb, sliding hours rest of year). Take the elevator down to a platform to observe the full force of the plunging water. Futarasan-jinja (; 0288-55-0017; 8am-5pm Apr-Oct, 9am-4pm Nov-Mar) complements the shrines at Tōshō-gū. The shrine is about 1km west of the falls, along the lake’s north shore. The eponymous temple Chūzen-ji Tachiki-kannon (; 0288-55-0013; adult/child ¥500/200; 8am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar), located on the lake’s eastern shore, was founded in the 8th century and houses a 6m-tall Kannon statue from then.
For good views of the lake and Kegon-no-taki, get off the bus at the Akechi-daira bus stop (the stop before Chūzenji Onsen) and take the Akechi-daira Ropeway (Akechi Plateau Cable Car; ; 0288-55-0331;