Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [138]
For a bite to eat, immediately west of Yubatake is Yurakutei (; 88-3001; mains ¥700-1300;9.30am-11pm), a 2nd-floor spot that serves up hearty okonomiyaki crepes (¥720). Look for the wooden, tower-like structure.
Inns in the town centre are mostly pretty expensive, but the 12-room, Alpine-vibe Pension Segawa (; 88-1288; fax 88-1377; http://scty.net/segawa/, in Japanese; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥8025; ) is a 10-minute walk from the bus terminal (or the owners will pick you up). Choose a Western- or Japanese-style room and three different bathtubs, and look for fresh-baked bread.
Though you might not know from looking at its tower next to Yubatake, Hotel Ichii (; 88-0011; fax 88-0111; www.hotel-ichii.co.jp; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥13,500; ) has been a Kusatsu institution in business for 300-plus years. This is a rambling, retro-decor place featuring indoor and outdoor baths. Expect sansai (mountain vegetable) cuisine. In winter, ask about complimentary lift tickets for Kusatsu Kokusai ski resort.
Transport to Kusatsu Onsen is by bus from Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station. From Ueno, tokkyū Kusatsu trains take about 2½ hours (¥4620) to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station, then take the local bus to Kusatsu Onsen (¥670, 25 minutes). Alternatively, take the shinkansen to Takasaki and transfer to the JR Agatsuma line (¥5140, 2½ hours). JR Highway Buses (www.jrbuskanto.co.jp) from Shinjuku Station’s New South Exit cost ¥3200/5600 (one way/return) and take three to four hours each way; reservations required.
Minakami & Takaragawa Onsen
0278
In eastern Gunma-ken, Minakami is a thriving, sprawling onsen town with outdoor activities to match. The town of Minakami also encompasses Takaragawa Onsen (about 30 minutes away by road), a riverside spa oft-voted the nation’s best.
The train station is in the village of Minakami Onsen, as are most of Minakami’s lodgings. Minakami Tourist Information Centre (; 72-2611; www.minakami-onsen.com; 9am-5pm) is across from the station, has English pamphlets and can make accommodation reservations (in Japanese). Ask which inns in town have higaeri nyuyoku (day-use baths) open when you visit.
Hōshi Onsen Chōjūkan (; 66-0005; fax 66-0003; www.houshi-onsen.jp, in Japanese; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥13,800), on the southwestern fringes of Minakami town, is one of Japan’s finest onsen inns. To reach this perfectly rustic, supremely photogenic lodging, take a bus to Jōmō Kōgen Station (20 minutes), then another bus for Sarugakyō Onsen (35 minutes). At the last stop, take another bus for Hōshi Onsen (25 minutes). Be sure to check schedules at the tourist information centre.
Tanigawadake Ropeway (; 72-3575; return ¥2000; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm Sat & Sun) takes you via gondola to the peak of Tenjin-daira, from where hiking trips, ranging from a couple of hours to all day, are available from May to November. There’s skiing and snowboarding in winter. From Minakami Station, take a 20-minute bus to Ropeway-Eki-mae bus stop (¥650, about hourly).
A number of operators lead rafting and kayaking trips in warmer months, and winter expeditions such as snowshoeing, from about ¥6000 for a half-day. Enquire at the tourist information centre. Max (72-4844) is a typical outlet, with English-speaking guides.
Takaragawa Onsen (75-2611; adult/child ¥1500/1000; 9am-5pm) is idyllic and rangey. Most of its several pools on the river-banks (with slate, not natural, flooring) are mixed-bathing, and there’s a women-only bath. Women are allowed to take modesty towels into the mixed baths. A fascinating antiques shop on the way down to the baths is full of junk and gems ranging from lacquered teapots to Buddha heads and abacuses.
The inn on the other side of the river, Ōsenkaku (; 75-2121; fax 75-2038; www.takaragawa.com; r per person incl 2 meals from ¥11,700) is spectacular, with gorgeous riverfront rooms over several buildings, a mighty old-style feel and 24-hour use of the outdoor onsen. Prices rise steeply for nicer rooms with better views, but aim