Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [146]
During holidays, Hakone can be quite busy and feel highly packaged. To beat the crowds, plan your trip during the week. For more information, try www.hakone.or.jp/english.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Ashino-ko Kosui Matsuri At Hakone-jinja near Moto-Hakone, this festival on 31 July features firework displays over Hakone’s landmark lake.
Hakone Daimonji-yaki Matsuri During this summer festival on 16 August, the torches are lit on Myojoga-take so that they form the shape of the Chinese character for ‘big’ or ‘great’.
Hakone Daimyō Gyoretsu Parade On the national Culture Day holiday on 3 November, 400 costumed locals re-enact a feudal lord’s procession.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Bus
Odakyū’s express bus service runs directly from the west exit of Shinjuku Station to Hakone-machi (¥1950, two hours, 20 daily), but you lose the fun of the combination of rail, cable and water-borne conveyances.
Train
The private Odakyū line (www.odakyu.jp) from Shinjuku Station takes you directly into Hakone-Yumoto, the region’s transit hub. If you are travelling on a JR Pass, you can save the intercity fare by taking the JR train to Odawara and changing trains for Hakone-Yumoto.
Odakyū’s Hakone Freepass (), available at Odakyū stations and Odakyū Travel branches, is an excellent deal for the standard Hakone circuit, covering the return fare to Hakone and unlimited use of most modes of transport within the region, plus other discounts. It’s available as a two-day pass (adult/child from Shinjuku ¥5000/1500, from Odawara ¥3900/1000) or a three-day pass (adult/child from Shinjuku ¥5500/1750, from Odawara ¥4400/1250).
Transport prices in this section are without the Freepass, except as noted.
The most convenient service is Odakyū’s charmingly named Romance Car to Hakone-Yumoto (with/without Freepass ¥870/2020, 85 minutes). There is also kyūkō (regular express) service (¥1150, two hours), although you may have to change trains at Odawara.
JR trains run between Shinjuku and Odawara (¥1450, 80 minutes). From Tokyo Station, take the Kodama shinkansen (¥3130, 35 minutes) or the JR Tōkaidō line (futsū, ¥1450, 1¼ hours; tokkyū, ¥2350, one hour).
At Odawara, change to the narrow-gauge, switchback Hakone-Tōzan line, via Hakone-Yumoto to Gōra (¥650, one hour). If you’ve arrived in Hakone-Yumoto on the Odakyū line, you can change to the Hakone-Tōzan line (¥390 to Gōra, 40 minutes) in the same station.
GETTING AROUND
Part of Hakone’s popularity comes from the chance to ride assorted norimono (modes of transport): switchback train (from Hakone-Yumoto to Gōra), funicular, ropeway (gondola), ship and bus. Check out www.odakyu.jp, which describes this circuit. Stops along the way have snack and souvenir shops.
Boat
From Tōgendai, sightseeing boats crisscross Ashino-ko to Hakone-machi and Moto-Hakone (¥970, 30 minutes). The boats look like pirate ships and Mississippi River paddlewheelers – tourist kitsch but fun all the same.
Bus
The Hakone-Tōzan and Izu Hakone bus companies service the Hakone area, linking up most of the sights. Hakone-Tōzan bus routes are included in the Hakone Freepass. If you finish in Hakone-machi, Hakone-Tōzan buses run between here and Odawara for ¥1150 and take 45 minutes. Hakone-en to Odawara costs ¥1270. Buses run from Moto-Hakone to Hakone-Yumoto for ¥930, taking 35 minutes, every 30 minutes from 10am to 3pm.
Cable Car & Ropeway
Gōra is the terminus of the Hakone-Tōzan railway and the beginning of the cable car (funicular) to Sōun-zan, from where you can catch the Hakone Ropeway (gondola) line to Ōwakudani and Tōgendai.
Luggage Forwarding
At Hakone-Yumoto Station, deposit your luggage with Hakone Baggage Service (; 86-4140; baggage per piece from ¥600; 8.30am-7pm) by noon, and it will be delivered to your inn within Hakone from 3pm. From inns, pick-up is at 10am for a 1pm delivery at Hakone-Yumoto. Hakone Freepass holders get ¥100 discount per bag.
Hakone-Yumoto Onsen
Hakone-Yumoto is the starting point for most visits to Hakone, and it can