Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [148]
Pola Museum of Art (84-2111; www.polamuseum.or.jp; adult/junior-high & elementary school student/university & high-school student ¥1800/700/1300; 9am-4.30pm) is a worthy detour from Gōra. The collection comprises some 9500 works of European and Japanese painting from the impressionists onwards, as well as ceramics and glass art, in changing displays. Admission is free for elementary and junior-high school students on Saturdays. From Gōra Station, take the sightseeing shuttle bus to Shissei-kaen (¥290, 13 minutes).
The newly built Hyatt Regency Hakone Resort and Spa (82-2000; fax 82-2001; hakone.regency.hyatt.com; tw from ¥43,900;) is an exquisite retreat with large, ultra-deluxe rooms featuring private terraces and excellent views of the valley. A spa and onsen here offers exclusive de-stressing courses and enormous baths, but you can also just kick back around the large open fireplace in the stylish central lounge.
Gyōza Center (82-3457; mains ¥735-945, set meals ¥1155-1365; lunch daily, dinner Fri-Wed) is famous for its gyōza (dumplings) a dozen different ways, including in soup (sui-gyōza), in soup with kimchi (kimchi sui-gyōza) and plain pan-fried (nōmaru). It’s between Gōra and Chōkoku-no-Mori Stations, with a small English sign and English menu.
SLEEPING
In addition to places listed in other individual destination sections there are these long-time favourites.
Hakone Sengokuhara Youth Hostel (84-8966; fax 84-6578; http://hakone.syuriken.jp/YH/; members/nonmembers dm ¥3200/3800, r per person ¥4800/5000; ) This pleasant hostel is directly behind the Fuji Hakone Guest House and is run by the same family. It has Japanese-style dorms and private rooms, hot-spring baths, cooking facilities and English-speaking staff.
Fuji Hakone Guest House (84-6577; fax 84-6578; http://hakone.syuriken.jp/hakone/; r per person ¥5250-6300; ) Run by a welcoming, English-speaking family, the guest house has handsome tatami rooms and a cosy onsen. Expect rates to increase by between ¥1000 and ¥2000 per person at busy times. Take the stop No 4 bus from Odawara Station to Senkyōrō-mae bus stop (50 minutes). There’s an English sign close by.
Sōun-zan & Ōwakudani
From Gōra, continue to near the 1153m-high summit of Sōun-zan by funicular (¥410, 10 minutes).
From Sōun-zan, there are several hiking trails including one to Mt Kami (1¾ hours) and another up to Ōwakudani (1¼ hours). The latter is sometimes closed due to the mountain’s toxic gases. Check at the tourist information office.
Sōun-zan is the starting point for the Hakone Ropeway, a 30-minute, 4km gondola ride to Tōgendai (one way/return ¥1330/2340), stopping at Ōwakudani en route. In fine weather Mt Fuji looks fabulous from here.
Ōwakudani is a volcanic cauldron of steam, bubbling mud and mysterious smells. The Ōwakudani-Kojiri Nature Trail (Ōwakudani Kojiri Shizen Tanshō Hodō; ) leads uphill through the charred, somewhat apocalyptic landscape to some of the boiling pits. Here you can buy boiled eggs, turned black in the sulphurous waters. Don’t linger as the gases are poisonous.
Ashino-ko
Between Tōgendai, Hakone-machi and Moto-Hakone, this leg-shaped lake is touted as the primary attraction of the Hakone region; but it’s Mt Fuji, with its snow-clad slopes glimmering in reflection on the water, that lends the lake its poetry. If the venerable mountain is hidden behind clouds (as often happens), you have the consolation of a trip across the lake with recorded commentary in English about the history and natural surroundings. Click here for details about lake transport.
Hakone-machi & Moto-Hakone
The sightseeing boats across Ashino-ko deposit you at either of these two towns, both well touristed and with sights