Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [158]
CHINATOWN
Yokohama’s Chinatown (Chūkagai; Motomachi-Chūkagai, Ishikawa-chō) has the sights, sounds, aromas of Hong Kong, and rivals Minato Mirai in popularity. Within its 10 elaborately painted gates are all manner of Chinese speciality shops and some 500 food shops and (often expensive) restaurants. Chinatown’s heart is the Chinese temple Kantei-byō (226-2636; 140 Yamashita-chō; admission free;9am-7pm), dedicated to Kanwu, the god of business. For information about Yokohama Daisekai, a Chinese theme park, see the boxed text.
SANKEI-EN
Opened to the public in 1906, the beautifully landscaped gardens of Sankei-en (621-0634; www.sankeien.or.jp; 58-1 Honmoku-sannotani; adult/child ¥500/200; 9am-4.30pm) feature walking paths among ponds, 17th-century buildings, several fine tea-ceremony houses and a 500-year-old, three-storey pagoda. The inner garden is a fine example of traditional Japanese-garden landscaping. From Yokohama or Sakuragi-chō Station, take bus 8 to Honmoku Sankei-en-mae bus stop (10 minutes).
Sleeping
Toyoko Inn Sutajium-mae (228-0045; fax 228-0046; www.toyoko-inn.com/eng; 205-1 Yamashita-chō; s/d ¥6090/8400; Kannai; ) Simple but nicely outfitted business hotel with small, comfortable rooms in a main building (Honkan) and marginally nicer new building (Shinkan). Rates include breakfast and internet.
Navios Yokohama (633-6000; fax 633-6001; www.navios-yokohama.com; 2-2-1 Shinkō; s/tw from ¥8400/15,750; Bashamichi; ) In Minato Mirai, it’s Yokohama’s best deal in this price range; rooms are spacious, spotless and central. Choose city views (across the harbour to Landmark Tower or sea views towards Akarenga Sōkō).
Hotel New Grand (681-1841; fax 681-1895; www.hotel-newgrand.co.jp; 10 Yamashita-kōen-dōri; s/tw from ¥13,860/28,000; Motomachi-Chūkagai; ) This old-line (1927) hotel with 251 rooms has a prime waterfront location and was once a favourite of visiting foreign dignitaries (check out the timeless original lobby). Now it’s a classy, upmarket option with some old-world charm, despite the addition of a tower in 1992.
Yokohama Royal Park Hotel (221-1111; fax 224-5153; www.yrph.com; 2-2-1-3 Minato Mirai; s/tw & d from ¥31,500/36,750; ) You can’t get any higher than this, on the upper floors of Landmark Tower, and it hardly gets more luxe either, with a fitness centre, a pool, oodles of space, marble, burl wood, automatic blackout curtains and an aromatherapy salon.
Pan Pacific Yokohama Bay (682-2222; fax 682-2223; http://pphy.co.jp; 2-3-7 Minato Mirai; tw from ¥42,000; Minatomirai; ) Right by the convention centre, this superbly glitzy hotel boasts designer furnishings, rooms with balconies, excellent views and butlers for the higher-end suites, and several good but pricey restaurants.
Eating
Chinatown offers the most interesting food options in town. Plan on spending about ¥5000 per person for a fancy dinner and perhaps half that for lunch (look for set menus), although there are certainly less expensive eateries. For an eclectic mix of cuisines, visit the restaurant floors of Landmark Tower and Queen’s Sq.
Chano-ma (650-8228; 3rd fl, Akarenga Sōkō Bldg 2; mains from ¥700; 11am-4am, to 5am Fri & Sat) Dine on sushi, salads and croquettes at high tables with high chairs or on mattresses arranged around an open kitchen, while serious club beats play under tall ceilings; English menu.
Baikōtei (681-4870; 1-1 Aioicho; mains ¥800-1300; 11am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; Kannai or Nihon Ō-dōri) This weathered classic with red-velour seating is famed for its Hayashi rice (with meat, vegetables and demi-glace), and a mean katsu-don (pork cutlet). Look for the sign that announces Baikō Emmies; there’s an English menu available.
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IT’S A RESTAURANT! IT’S A THEME PARK!
Yokohama loves food and Yokohama