Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [162]
TEN-EN HIKING COURSE
Another excellent walk through the countryside begins by walking around Kenchō-ji’s Hojo (Main Hall) and up the steps to the entrance of the Ten-en Hiking Course. From here it’s a two-hour walk to Zuisen-ji, along one of the most scenic spots in Kanagawa-ken; those with less time can take a shorter (80-minute) trail to Kamakura-gū.
ENNŌ-JI
Across the road from Kenchō-ji is Ennō-ji (25-1905; admission ¥200; 9am-4pm Mar-Nov, to 3.30pm Dec-Feb), which is distinguished primarily by its collection of statues depicting the judges of hell. Presiding over them is a statue of Emma (Sanskrit name is Yama; an Important Cultural Property), an ancient Hindu deity and ruler of the hell’s 10 kings. The statue is noted for its fierce gaze meant for the wicked (hopefully you won’t have anything to worry about).
TSURUGAOKA HACHIMAN-GŪ
Further down the road, where it turns towards Kamakura Station, is Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū (22-0315; treasure hall admission adult/child ¥200/100; 6am-8.30pm), the main Shintō shrine of Kamakura. It was founded by Minamoto Yoriyoshi, of the same Minamoto clan that ruled Japan from Kamakura. This shrine’s sprawl, with elongated paths, broad vistas and lotus ponds, presents the visitor with an atmosphere drastically different to the repose of the Zen temples clustered around Kita-Kamakura Station. The Gempei Pond (the name comes from the kanji for the Genji and Heike clans) is divided by bridges, said to symbolise the rift between the clans. Behind the pond is the Kamakura Museum (22-0753; adult/child ¥300/100; 9am-4pm), housing remarkable Zen Buddhist sculptures from the 12th to 16th centuries.
DAIBUTSU
The Kamakura Daibutsu (Great Buddha; 22-0703; adult/child ¥200/150; 7am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar) is at Kōtoku-in temple. Completed in 1252, it is Japan’s second-largest Buddha image and Kamakura’s most famous sight. Once housed in a huge hall, today the statue sits in the open, the hall having been washed away by a tsunami in 1495. Cast in bronze and weighing close to 850 tonnes, the statue is 11.4m tall. Its construction is said to have been inspired by Yoritomo’s visit to Nara (where Japan’s biggest Daibutsu holds court) after the Minamoto clan’s victory over the Taira clan. Even though Kamakura’s Daibutsu doesn’t quite match Nara’s in stature, it is commonly agreed that it is artistically superior.
The Buddha itself is the Amida Buddha (amitābha in Sanskrit), worshipped by followers of the Jōdo school as a figure of salvation.
Buses from stops 1 to 6 in front of Kamakura Station run to the Daibutsu-mae stop. Alternatively, take the Enoden Enoshima line to Hase Station and walk north for about five minutes. Better yet, take the Daibutsu Hiking Course.
HASE-DERA
About 10 minutes’ walk from the Daibutsu, Hase-dera (Hase Kannon; 22-6300; adult/child ¥300/100; 8am-5pm Mar-Sep, to 4.30pm Oct-Feb) is one of the most popular temples in the Kantō region.
The walls of the staircases leading up to the main hall are lined with thousands of tiny statues of Jizō; ranked like a small army of urchins, many of them are clothed to keep them warm. It’s quite charming until you realise that Jizō is the patron bodhisattva of travellers and departed children, and the statues were placed there by women who lost children through miscarriage or abortion.
The focal point of the temple’s main hall is the Kannon statue. Kannon (avalokiteshvara in Sanskrit), the goddess of mercy, is the bodhisattva of infinite compassion and, along with Jizō, is one of Japan’s most popular Buddhist deities. This 9m-high carved wooden jūichimen (11-faced Kannon) is believed to date from the 8th century. The temple dates back to AD 736, when it is said the statue