Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [200]
SLEEPING & EATING
Some Japanese is helpful in making reservations at one of Ogimachi’s many gasshō-zukuri inns, originally private houses that now let out rooms. Rates include two meals. Expect a nightly heating surcharge (¥400 and up) during cold weather. Ogimachi has a few casual restaurants (look for soba or hoba-miso); most open only for lunch.
Kōemon (6-1446; fax 6-1748; r per person ¥8400) In the town centre, atmospheric Kōemon has five rooms with heated floors, dark-wood panelling and shared bathrooms. The fifth-generation owner speaks English and his love of Shirakawa-gō is infectious. Try to book the room facing the pond.
Shimizu (6-1914; www.shimizuinn.com; r per person ¥8400) Its location, a little removed from the town centre, means more quiet and a home-style feel; arrange for pick-up in advance in bad weather or if you have large baggage. Its three rooms have six tatami each and are comfortably furnished, though the bath is tiny and guests often choose instead to go to the public onsen. Some English is spoken.
Magoemon (6-1167; fax 6-1851; r per person ¥9800) Another friendly place, Magoemon has six slightly larger rooms, half with river views. Meals are served around the handsome irori.
Toyota Shirakawa-gō Eco-Institute (; 6-1187; www.toyota.eco-inst.jp; d per person from ¥12,200) This eco-resort, a five-minute bus ride outside central Ogimachi, offers many activities: birdwatching, climbing Hakusan and more. Organic meals are served. Although it gets school and corporate groups, individual travellers are also welcome. Rates vary widely and include discounts for children.
Masu-en Bunsuke (6-1268; dishes ¥300-500, teishoku ¥1500-4000; 9am-9pm) Uphill from the town centre, this attractive restaurant specialises in fresh trout, raised in ponds near the restaurant.
Irori (6-1737; mains ¥700-1500; lunch) On the main road near Wada-ke, Irori serves regional specialities like hoba-miso and yakidofu (fried tofu), as well as sansai or tempura soba to patrons who gather around the warm hearths inside.
Gokayama District
0763
Along the Shōkawa, Gokayama is so isolated that road links and electricity didn’t arrive until 1925.
Villages with varying numbers of gasshō-zukuri buildings are scattered over many kilometres along Rte 156. The following briefly describes some of the communities you’ll come across as you travel north from Shirakawa-gō or the Gokayama exit from the Tōkai-Hokuriku Expressway; if your time is limited, head straight for Ainokura.
SUGANUMA
This riverside World Heritage Site (www.gokayama.jp/english/index.html), 15km north of Ogimachi and down a steep hill, features an attractive group of nine gasshō-zukuri houses. The Minzoku-kan (; Folklore Museum; 67-3652; adult/child ¥300/150; 9am-4pm) consists of two houses, with items from traditional life, and displays illustrating traditional gunpowder production.
About 1km further up Rte 156, Kuroba Onsen (; 67-3741; adult/child ¥600/300; 10.30am-9pm Wed-Mon Apr-Nov, 11am-9pm Wed-Mon Dec-Mar) is a complex of indoor-outdoor baths overlooking the river, with fine mountain views from its different storeys. Its low-alkaline waters are good for fatigue and sore muscles.
KAMINASHI
About 5km beyond Suganuma, the house museum Murakami-ke (; 66-2711; adult/child ¥300/150; 8.30am-5pm Apr-Nov, 9am-4pm Dec-Mar, closed 2nd & 4th Wed of each month) is one of the oldest in the region (dating from 1578). The proud owner shows visitors around and then sits them beside the irori