Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [203]
Dozens of long-distance options vary in duration from a couple of days to a week. Japanese-language maps of the area show routes and average hiking times between huts, major peaks and landmarks. Favourite hikes and climbs (which can mean human traffic jams during peak seasons) include Yariga-take (3180m) and Hotaka-dake (3190m) – also known as Oku-Hotaka-dake.
A steep but worthwhile hike connects Kamikōchi and Shin-Hotaka. The trail from Kappa-bashi crosses the ridge below Nishi Hotaka-dake (2909m) at Nishi Hotaka San-sō (Nishi Hotaka Mountain Cottage; three hours) and continues on to Nishi Hotaka-guchi, which is the top station of the Shin-Hotaka Ropeway. The hike takes nearly four hours (because of a steep ascent). Or you could save an hour of sweat by hiking in the opposite direction. To reach the ropeway, take a bus from Takayama or Hirayu Onsen to Shin-Hotaka.
Other more distant hiking destinations include Nakabusa Onsen (allow three days) and Murodō (allow five days), which is on the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpen Route. This allows you to indulge in a soak en route in Takama-ga-hara Onsen, one of the finest in Japan.
For long-distance hikes there are mountain huts available; enquire at the information centre for details. Hikers and climbers should be well prepared. Even during summer, temperatures can plummet, or the whole area can be covered in sleeting rain or blinding fog, and in thunderstorms there is no refuge on the peaks.
ONSEN
On cold or drizzly days, the hot baths at the Kamikōchi Onsen Hotel (95-2311; admission ¥600; 7-9am & 12.30-3.30pm) are a refreshing respite.
The area’s most unusual onsen is Bokuden-no-yu (95-2341; admission ¥700; 7am-5pm), a tiny cave bath dripping with minerals. It’s at the intersection at Naka-no-yu, just before the bus-only tunnel towards Kamikōchi proper. Enter the small shop next to the Naka-no-yu bus stop, pay and get the key to the little mountain hut housing the onsen. It is yours privately for up to 30 minutes.
Sleeping & Eating
Accommodation in Kamikōchi is pricey and advance reservations are essential. Except for camping, rates quoted here include two meals. Some lodgings shut down their electricity generators in the middle of the night (emergency lighting stays on).
Tokusawa-en (95-2508; camp sites/dm/r per person ¥500/9450/13,650) A marvellously secluded place, in a wooded dell about 3km northeast of Kappa-bashi. It’s both a camping ground and a lodge, and has Japanese-style rooms (shared facilities) and hearty meals served in a busy dining hall.
Kamikōchi Konashidaira Kyampu-jō (95-2321; camp sites per person from ¥700, tents/bungalows from ¥2000/6000; office 7am-7pm) About 200m past the visitor centre, this camping ground can get packed with tents. Rental tents (in July and August) and bungalows are available, and there’s a small shop and restaurant (open until 6pm).
Kamikōchi Nishiitoya San-sō (95-2206; fax 95-2208; www.nishiitoya.com; dm ¥8000, d per person ¥10,550) Recently refurbished, this friendly lodge with a cosy lounge dates from the early 20th century. Rooms are a mix of Japanese and Western styles, all with toilet and shared bath: a large onsen facing the Hotaka mountains. It’s just west of Kappa-bashi.
Kamikōchi Gosenjaku Lodge (95-2221; fax 95-2511; www.gosenjaku.co.jp; ‘skier’s bed’ per person ¥10,500, d/tr/q ¥17,850/16,800/15,750) This is a polished little place. Its 34 rooms are mostly Japanese-style plus some ‘skier’s beds’, which are basically curtained-off bunk beds. Rooms all have sink and toilet, but baths are shared. Buffet-style meals are Japanese, Chinese and Western.
Dotted along the trails and around the mountains are dozens of spartan yama-goya (mountain huts), which provide two meals and a futon from around ¥8000 per person; some also serve simple lunches.