Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [217]
Access to Bessho Onsen is via Ueda, on the JR Nagano shinkansen (from Tokyo ¥6490, 1½ hours; from Nagano ¥2870, 13 minutes) or the private Shinano Tetsudō line from Nagano (¥740, about 35 minutes). At Ueda, change to the private Ueda Dentetsu line to Bessho Onsen (¥570, 30 minutes, approximately hourly).
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MATSUMOTO
0263 / pop 227,000
A traveller’s favourite, Matsumoto has a superb castle, some pretty streets and an atmosphere that’s both laid-back and surprisingly cosmopolitan.
Nagano-ken’s second-largest city has been around since at least the 8th century. Formerly known as Fukashi, it was the castle town of the Ogasawara clan during the 14th and 15th centuries, and it continued to prosper through the Edo period. Today, Matsumoto’s street aesthetic combines the black and white of its castle with namako-kabe (lattice-pattern-walled) kura and Edo-period streetscapes in the Nakamachi district, and some smart 21st-century Japanese architecture. Plus, views of the Japan Alps are never much further than around the corner. The areas by the Metoba-gawa and Nakamachi boast galleries, comfortable cafes and reasonably priced, high-quality accommodation.
Utsukushi-ga-hara and Asama Onsens and the Utsukushi-ga-hara plateau are day trips, while Hotaka can be either a day trip or the start of a hiking route. Matsumoto is also a transit hub for Japan Alps National Park and the Kiso Valley.
Orientation & Information
For a castle town, Matsumoto is relatively easy to get around. Although small streets radiate somewhat confusingly from the train station, soon you’re on a grid. Any place on the Matsumoto map in this book is within 20 minutes’ walk of the train station.
The main post office is located on Honmachi-dōri. For web information, visit www.city.matsumoto.nagano.jp.
Matsumoto’s tourist information office (32-2814; 1-1-1 Fukashi; 9.30am-5.45pm), inside Matsumoto Station, has English-language pamphlets and maps, and can book accommodation. For train and bus reservations, try JTB (35-3311; 1-2-11 Fukashi).
Sights & Activities
MATSUMOTO-JŌ
Even if you spend only a couple of hours in Matsumoto, be sure to visit Matsumoto-jō (32-2902; 4-1 Marunōchi; adult/child ¥600/300; 8.30am-5pm early-Sep–mid-Jul, to 6pm mid-Jul & Aug), Japan’s oldest wooden castle and one of four castles designated National Treasures – the others are Hikone, Himeji and Inuyama.
The magnificent three-turreted donjon was built c 1595, in contrasting black and white, leading to the nickname Karasu-jō (Crow Castle). Steep steps lead up six storeys, with impressive views from each level. Lower floors display guns, bombs and gadgets with which to storm castles, and a delightful tsukimi yagura (moon-viewing pavilion). It has a tranquil moat full of carp, with the occasional swan gliding beneath the red bridges. The basics are explained over loudspeakers in English and Japanese. You can also ask at the entrance about a free tour in English (subject to availability), or call the Goodwill Guide Group (32-7140), which gives free one-hour tours by reservation.
The castle grounds (and your admission ticket) also include the Matsumoto City Museum/Japan Folklore Museum (32-0133; 4-1 Marunōchi; 8.30am-4.30pm), with small displays relating to the region’s history and folklore, including tanabata dolls (wood or cardboard cut-outs dressed in paper) and the wooden phalluses that play a prominent role in the September Dōsojin Matsuri (opposite).
NAKAMACHI
The narrow streets of this former merchant district make a fine setting for a stroll, as most of its storehouses have been transformed into cafes, galleries and craft shops specialising in wood, glass, fabric, ceramics and antiques. Nakamachi Kura-Chic-Kan (‘Classic-kan’; 36-3053; 2-9-15 Chūō; 9am-10pm) is just one option, showcasing locally produced arts and