Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [228]
Kenroku-en is certainly attractive, but enormous crowds can diminish its intimacy. Visit at opening time and you’ll have the place to yourself.
ISHIKAWA PREFECTURAL MUSEUM OF TRADITIONAL PRODUCTS & CRAFTS
Behind Seison-kaku, this museum (262-2020; 2-1 Kenroku-machi; adult/child/senior ¥250/100/200; 9am-5pm, closed 3rd Thu of month Apr-Nov, closed Thu Dec-Mar) is not flashy but offers fine displays of over 20 regional crafts. Pick up the free English-language headphone guide.
ISHIKAWA PREFECTURAL ART MUSEUM
This museum (231-7580; 2-1 Dewa-machi; adult/child/university student ¥350/free/280; 9.30am-5pm) specialises in antique exhibitions of traditional arts, with special emphasis on colourful Kutani porcelain, Japanese painting and Kaga yūzen (silk-dyed) fabrics and costumes. Admission prices are higher during special exhibitions.
NAKAMURA MEMORIAL MUSEUM
Rotating exhibitions from the 600-piece collection of this museum (221-0751; 3-2-29 Honda-machi; adult/child/senior ¥300/free/200; 9.30am-5pm) usually include chanoyu (tea ceremony) utensils, calligraphy and traditional crafts from the collection of a wealthy sake brewer, Nakamura Eishun. You can enjoy a bowl of powdered tea for ¥100. Reached via a narrow flight of steps below the Ishikawa Prefectural Art Museum.
HONDA MUSEUM
The Honda family were chief retainers to the Maeda clan, and this museum (261-0500; 3-1 Dewa-machi; admission ¥500; 9am-5pm daily Mar-Oct, Fri-Wed Nov-Feb) exhibits the family collection of armour, household utensils and works of art. The bulletproof coat and the family vase are particularly interesting, and there’s a detailed catalogue in English.
GYOKUSEN-EN
For more intimacy and fewer crowds than Kenroku-en, this Edo-period garden (221-0181; 1-1 Marunouchi; adult/child ¥500/350; 9am-4pm Mar–mid-Nov) rises up a steep slope. Enjoy a cup of tea here for an additional ¥700, while contemplating the tranquil setting.
ŌHI POTTERY MUSEUM
This museum (221-2397; Hashiba-chō; adult/child ¥700/500; 9am-5pm) was established by the Chōzaemon family, now in its 10th generation. The first Chōzaemon developed this style in nearby Ōhi village, using a special slow-fired amber glaze, specifically for use in chanoyu. See the boxed text, for more information.
HIGASHI CHAYA-GAI
North of the Ōhi Pottery Museum and across Asano-gawa, Higashi chaya-gai (Higashi Geisha District) is an enclave of narrow streets that was established early in the 19th century as a centre for geisha to entertain wealthy patrons. The slatted wooden facades of the geisha houses are romantically preserved.
One famous, traditional former geisha house is Shima (252-5675; 1-13-21 Higashiyama; adult/child ¥400/300; 9am-6pm), dating from 1820. Note the case of elaborate combs and shamisen (three-stringed traditional instrument) picks. Across the street, Kaikarō (253-0591; 1-14-8 Higashiyama; admission ¥700; 9am-5pm) is an early-19th-century geisha house refinished with contemporary fittings and art, including a red lacquered staircase.
The Sakuda Gold Leaf Company (251-6777; 1-3-27 Higashiyama; admission free; 9am-6pm) is a good place to observe the kinpaku (gold leaf) process and pick up gilded souvenirs (including pottery, lacquerware and, er, golf balls). The tea served here contains flecks of gold leaf, meant to be good for rheumatism. Even the walls of the loos are lined with gold and platinum.
On most nights you can visit the local sentō, Higashi-yu (252-5410; 1-13-2 Higashiyama; admission ¥370; 2pm-12.30am Mon & Wed-Sat, 1pm-12.30am Sun).
TERAMACHI DISTRICT
This hilly neighbourhood across Sai-gawa, southwest of the centre, was established as a first line of defence and contains dozens of temples. Myōryū-ji (Ninja-dera; 241-0888; 1-2-12 Nomachi; admission ¥800; 9am-4.30pm Mar-Nov, to 4pm Dec-Feb, reservations required) is a five-minute