Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [230]
Kanazawa Excel Hotel Tokyū (231-2411; www.tokyuhotels.co.jp; 2-1-1 Kōrinbo; s/d/tw from ¥14,400/21,900/24,200; ) At 15 storeys (try for a room with views across the city to Hakusan National Park), Kanazawa city’s most stylish hotel has sleek rooms, a slightly ’80s retro design and plenty of amenities (including BBC on the telly). It’s also a winner for its central location in the heart of Katamachi.
Matsumoto (221-0302; fax 221-0303; 1-7-2 Owari-chō; r per person with 2 meals ¥25,000) This upscale inn bills itself as a ryōri (cuisine) ryokan; expect a culinary treat of local specialities. Huge rooms have private bathrooms. It’s near the intersection of Hyakumangoku-ōdōri and Jūhoku-dōri, down a narrow street across from the post office. No English is spoken.
Eating
Seafood is the staple of Kanazawa’s Kaga ryōri (Kaga cuisine); even the most humble train-station bentō nearly all feature some type of fish. Oshi-zushi, a thin layer of fish pressed atop vinegared rice, is said to be the precursor to modern sushi. Another favourite is jibuni, which is flour-coated duck or chicken stewed with shiitake and green vegetables. The Katamachi district and Ōmichō market are great for browsing, packed with locals and visitors alike. Many restaurants have English menus. One Ōmichō speciality is seafood donburi (seafood served atop a deep bowl of rice). Teishoku cost ¥800 to ¥1200. Ōmichō’s restaurants close around 7pm or 8pm.
Oden Miyuki Honten (222-6117; 1-10-3 Katamachi; oden ¥100-400, most other dishes ¥400-600; dinner Mon-Sat) For fish in another form (ground and pressed into cakes and served in broth), oden is very satisfying, especially on chilly nights. Fans include Ishikawa’s most famous son, New York Yankees baseball star Hideki Matsui. Counter seats let you watch all the action. Some of the staff are English-speaking.
Legian (262-6510; 2-31-30 Katamachi; most dishes ¥600-1000; dinner; ) For popular, authentic Indonesian cuisine head to this tiny spot by the river. Staff make annual trips to Indonesia to bone up on technique, and are happy to make vegetarian versions. Good lunch specials are available.
Osteria del Campagne (261-2156; 2-31-33 Katamachi; mains ¥650-1950, set menus from ¥2500; dinner Mon-Sat) This cosy, quietly fashionable Italian bistro serves lovely set menus, including house-made focaccia, salads, pastas and desserts, plus hors d’oeuvres you can eat with chopsticks. There’s an English menu and friendly, professional staff.
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GET LACQUERED, GO TO POT, DYE & BE GILDED
Much as the Medici family was the patron of some of the great artists of the Italian Renaissance, during the Edo period Kanazawa’s ruling Maeda family fuelled the growth of important crafts. Many of these crafts are still practised today.
Kanazawa & Wajima Lacquerware
This luminous black lacquerware starts with hard, durable wood, such as keyaki (zelkova), or Japanese chestnut, finely carved with any defects removed or filled. Many layers of undercoating and middle coating are applied, each rubbed down with washi (Japanese paper) before the next application. Before the final topcoat, decoration is applied through maki-e (painting) or gilding. With the last coat of lacquer, artists must take great care that dust does not settle on the final product.
Ōhi Pottery
An aesthetic central to the tea ceremony is wabi-sabi: introspective, humble and understated, yet profound and prepared with great thought. The deliberately simple, almost primitive designs, rough surfaces, irregular shapes and monochromatic glazes of Ōhi pottery have long been favoured by tea practitioners. The same family, with the professional name Chōzaemon, has been keeper of the Ōhi tradition since the early Edo period.
Kutani Porcelain
Known for elegant shapes, graceful designs and bold hues of red, blue, yellow, purple and green, this underglaze ware could