Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [242]
The problem was that from the 9th century, the imperial family was increasingly isolated from the mechanics of political power and the country was ruled primarily by military families, or shōgunates. While Kyoto still remained capital in name and was the cultural focus of the nation, imperial power was, for the most part, symbolic and the business of running state affairs was often carried out elsewhere.
Just as imperial fortunes have waxed and waned, the fortunes of the city itself have fluctuated dramatically. During the Ōnin War (1466–67), which marked the close of the Muromachi period, the Kyoto Gosho (Imperial Palace) and most of the city were destroyed. Much of what can be seen in Kyoto today dates from the Edo period. Although political power resided in Edo, Kyoto was rebuilt and flourished as a cultural, religious and economic centre. Fortunately Kyoto was spared the aerial bombing that razed other Japanese urban centres in the closing months of WWII.
Today, Kyoto remains an important cultural and educational centre. It has some 20% of Japan’s National Treasures and 15% of Japan’s Important Cultural Properties, as well as dozens of museums and universities. The city also retains a lot of the industries that grew up to service the needs of the imperial court, and Kyoto remains the headquarters for Japan’s traditional arts and crafts worlds. In addition, Kyoto is home to several of Japan’s most successful hi-tech companies, including the video-game maker Nintendo and the ceramics giant Kyocera.
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SPECIAL TICKET DEALS
The Kansai Thru Pass is an excellent way to get around Kansai on the cheap. This pass – available at the travel counter in the arrivals hall of Kansai International Airport and at the main bus information centre in front of Kyoto Station – allows unlimited travel on most bus and train lines in Kansai except the Japan Railways (JR) line. (The pass covers travel on the Nankai line, which serves Kansai International Airport.) It also qualifies you for discounts at several attractions around Kansai. The pass does not cover the Ise-Shima region.
When you buy the pass, be sure to pick up the handy companion English guide-map, which shows all the bus and train lines available.
Two-/three-day passes cost ¥3800/5000. It’s possible to purchase multiple passes for longer explorations of Kansai. Like the Japan Rail Pass, however, these passes are only available to travellers on temporary visitor visas (you’ll have to show your passport). For more on the pass, visit the Kansai Thru Pass website (www.surutto.com/conts/ticket/3dayeng).
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CLIMATE
The best and most popular times to visit Kyoto are the climatically stable and temperate seasons of spring (March to May) and autumn (late September to November).
The highlight of spring is the cherry-blossom season, which usually arrives in Kyoto in early April. Bear in mind, though, that the blossoms are notoriously fickle, blooming any time from late March to mid-April.
Autumn offers pleasant temperatures and soothing autumn colours, which usually last from late October to early December (peaking in late November).
Summer, from June to August, can be very hot and humid, with high temps in the 30s (Celsius). However, it’s also the time when the Gion Matsuri and Daimon-ji Gozan Okuribi festivals are held (Click here).
Winter is chilly, with daily high temps in the single digits or low teens (Celsius), but the cold is hardly debilitating and the sights are pleasantly free of crowds during this time.
Be warned that Kyoto receives close to 50 million domestic and international