Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [255]
Tenju-an
This temple (Map; 771-0744; 86-8 Fukuchi-chō, Nanzen-ji, Sakyō-ku; admission ¥400; 9am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4.30pm Dec-Feb) stands at the side of the San-mon, a four-minute walk west of Nanzen-in. Built in 1337, the temple has a splendid garden and a great collection of carp in its pond.
Konchi-in
Just west of the main gate to Nanzen-ji (up some steps and down a side street), you will find Konchi-in (Map; admission ¥400; 8.30am-5pm Mar-Nov, to 4.30pm Dec-Feb), which has a dry garden designed by the master landscape designer Kobori Enshū. This garden is a good example of shakkei, or borrowed scenery; note how the mountains behind are drawn into the design.
MURIN-AN VILLA
This elegant villa (Map; 771-3909; Kusakawa-chō, Nanzen-ji, Sakyō-ku; admission ¥350; 9am-5pm) was the home of prominent statesman Yamagata Aritomo (1838–1922) and the site of a pivotal 1902 political conference as Japan was heading into the Russo-Japanese War. Enter by 4.30pm.
Built in 1896, the grounds contain well-preserved wooden buildings including a fine Japanese tearoom. The Western-style annexe is characteristic of Meiji-period architecture and the serene garden features small streams that draw water from the Biwa-ko Sosui canal. For ¥300 you can savour a bowl of frothy matcha (powdered green tea) while viewing the backdrop of the Higashiyama mountains.
Murin-an is a seven-minute walk from Keage Station on the Tōzai subway line.
EIKAN-DŌ
Eikan-dō (Map; 761-0007; www.eikando.or.jp/english/index_eng.htm; 48 Eikandō-chō, Sakyō-ku; admission ¥600; 9am-5pm) is a large temple famed for its varied architecture, gardens and works of art. It was founded in 855 by the priest Shinshō, but the name was changed to Eikan-dō in the 11th century to honour the philanthropic priest Eikan.
In the Amida-dō Hall, at the southern end of the complex, is the statue of Mikaeri Amida (Buddha Glancing Backwards). From the Amida-dō Hall, head north to the end of the covered walkway. Change into the sandals provided, then climb the steep steps up the mountainside to the Tahō-tō (Tahō Pagoda), where there’s a fine view across the city.
The temple is a 10-minute walk north of Nanzen-ji Click here. Enter by 4pm.
TETSUGAKU-NO-MICHI (PATH OF PHILOSOPHY)
The Tetsugaku-no-Michi (Map; Sakyō-ku Ginkaku-ji) is a pedestrian path that runs along a canal near the base of the Higashiyama. It’s lined with cherry trees and a host of other blooming trees and flowers. It takes its name from one of its most famous strollers: 20th-century philosopher Nishida Kitarō, who is said to have meandered along the path lost in thought. It only takes 30 minutes to complete the walk, which starts just north of Eikan-dō (left) and ends at Ginkaku-ji (below).
HŌNEN-IN
This fine temple (Map; 771-2420; 30 Goshonodan-chō, Shishigatani, Sakyō-ku; admission free; 6am-4pm) was established in 1680 to honour Hōnen, the charismatic founder of the Jōdo school. This is a lovely, secluded temple with carefully raked gardens set back in the woods. Be sure to visit in early April for the cherry blossoms and early November for the maple leaves, when the main hall is opened for a special viewing.
The temple is a 10-minute walk from Ginkaku-ji (below), on a side street that is accessible from the Tetsugaku-no-Michi (above); heading south on the path, look for the English sign on your left, then cross the bridge over the canal and follow the road uphill.
GINKAKU-JI
Ginkaku-ji (Map; 771-5725; 2 Ginkaku-ji-chō, Sakyō-ku; admission ¥500; 8.30am-5pm Mar-Nov, 9am-4.30pm Dec-Feb) is one of Kyoto’s premier sights. In 1482 Shōgun Ashikaga Yoshimasa constructed a villa here as a genteel retreat from the turmoil of civil war. The villa’s name translates as ‘Silver Pavilion’, but the shōgun’s ambition to cover the building with silver was never realised. After Yoshimasa’s death, the villa was converted into a temple.
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THE LIVING ART OF THE GEISHA