Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [257]
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GEISHA MANNERS
There’s no doubt that catching a glimpse of a geisha is an once-in-a-lifetime Japanese experience. Unfortunately, some people take things a little too far. Groups of camera-wielding tourists – both Japanese and foreign – gather each evening on Hanami-kōji in Gion, hoping to do a little ‘geisha-spotting’. While most are content with just a quick look or a photo snapped from a polite distance, a small minority of people actually chase the geisha, and some have even grabbed their kimono in hopes of stopping them for a picture.
Needless to say, this causes a lot of distress for Kyoto’s geisha and residents of Gion. Eventually, such behaviour will likely cause the geisha to go elsewhere, or avoid going outside altogether. Thus, we recommend that visitors to Gion keep a few simple things in mind when exploring the area:
Geisha should not be pursued or interfered with.
Geisha are usually on a tight schedule and they do not have time to stop and pose for pictures.
It is never acceptable to touch or grab a geisha, or physically block their progress.
It is important to treat geisha with respect. No one likes being mobbed by photographers or hounded as they walk down the street. It’s best to observe them from a polite distance and leave it at that.
If you really want to get close to a geisha, private tour agencies and high-end ryokan/hotels can arrange geisha entertainment; see the boxed text.
Finally, if you are intent on getting a few photos of geisha, you will find plenty of ‘tourist geisha’ in the streets of Higashiyama during the daytime. These are tourists who have paid to be made up as geisha. They look pretty much like the real thing and they are usually more than happy to pose for pictures.
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Miyako Messe & Fureai-Kan Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts
The museum (Map; 762-2670; 9-1 Seishōji-chō, Okazaki, Sakyō-ku; admission free; 9am-5pm, closed Dec 29-Jan 3) has exhibits covering things like wood-block prints, lacquerware, bamboo goods and gold-leaf work. It’s in the basement of the Miyako Messe (Kyoto International Exhibition Hall). Last entry 4.30pm.
Heian-jingū
This impressive shrine complex (Map; 761-0221; Nishitennō-chō, Okazaki, Sakyō-ku; admission to shrine precincts/garden free/¥600; 6am-6pm, slightly earlier/later depending on the season) was built in 1895 to commemorate the 1100th anniversary of the founding of Kyoto. The buildings are colourful replicas, reduced to two-thirds of the size of the Kyoto Gosho of the Heian period.
The spacious garden, with its large pond and Chinese-inspired bridge, is also meant to represent the kind of garden that was popular in the Heian period. About 500m in front of the shrine there is a massive steel torii. Although it appears to be entirely separate from the shrine, this is actually considered the main entrance to the shrine itself.
Two major events are held at the shrine: Jidai Matsuri (Festival of the Ages;), on 22 October, and takigi nō Click here, from 1 to 2 June.
SHISEN-DŌ
This temple (Map; 781-2954; 27 Monkuchi-chō, Ichijō-ji, Sakyō-ku; admission ¥500; 9am-5pm) was built in 1641 by Jōzan, a scholar of Chinese classics and a landscape architect, who wanted a place to retire to at the end of his life. The garden is a fine place to relax, with only the rhythmic ‘thwack’ of a bamboo sōzu (animal scarer) to interrupt your snooze.
The temple is a five-minute walk from the Ichijōji-sagarimatsu-mae bus stop on the bus 5 route.
MANSHU-IN
Founded by Saichō on Hiei-zan, this temple (Map;781-5010; 42 Takenouchi-chō, Ichijō-ji, Sakyō-ku; admission ¥600; 9am-5pm) was relocated here at the beginning of the Edo period. The architecture, works of art and garden are impressive. The temple is situated around 30 minutes’ walk (approximately 3km) to the north of Shisen-dō. Last entry 4.30pm.
SHŪGAKU-IN RIKYŪ
This imperial villa (Map; 211-1215; Yabusoe, Shūgakuin, Sakyō-ku; admission free) was begun in the 1650s by the abdicated emperor Go-Mizunoo, and work was continued after his death in 1680 by his daughter Akenomiya.