Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [266]
KURAMA & KIBUNE
Only 30 minutes north of Kyoto on the Eiden Eizan main line, Kurama and Kibune (Map) are a pair of tranquil valleys long favoured by Kyotoites as places to escape the crowds and stresses of the city below. Kurama’s main attractions are its mountain temple and its onsen (hot springs). Kibune, over the ridge, is a cluster of ryokan overlooking a mountain stream. It is best enjoyed in the summer, when the ryokan serve dinner on platforms built over the rushing waters of the Kibune-gawa, providing welcome relief from the summer heat.
The two valleys lend themselves to being explored together. In the winter one can start from Kibune, walk for an hour or so over the ridge, visit Kurama-dera and then soak in the onsen before heading back to Kyoto. In the summer the reverse is best; start from Kurama, walk up to the temple, then down the other side to Kibune to enjoy a meal suspended above the cool river.
If you happen to be in Kyoto on the night of 22 October, be sure not to miss the Kurama-no-hi Matsuri (Kurama Fire Festival;), one of the most exciting festivals in the Kyoto area.
To get to Kurama and Kibune, take the Eiden Eizan line from Kyoto’s Demachiyanagi Station. For Kibune, get off at the second-to-last stop, Kibune Guchi, take a right out of the station and walk about 20 minutes up the hill. For Kurama, go to the last stop, Kurama, and walk straight out of the station. Both destinations are ¥410 and take about 30 minutes to reach.
Kurama-dera
This temple (Map; 741-2003; 1074 Honmachi, Kurama, Sakyō-ku; admission ¥200; 9am-4.30pm) was established in 770 by the monk Gantei from Nara’s Tōshōdai-ji. After seeing a vision of the deity Bishamon-ten, guardian of the northern quarter of the Buddhist heaven, he established Kurama-dera just below the peak of Kurama-yama. Originally under the Tendai sect, Kurama has been independent since 1949, describing its own brand of Buddhism as Kurama Kyō.
The entrance to the temple is just up the hill from the Eiden Eizan main line’s Kurama Station. A tram goes to the top for ¥100; alternatively, hike up by following the main path past the tram station. The trail is worth taking if it’s not too hot, as it winds through a forest of towering old-growth sugi (cryptomeria) trees. At the top there is a courtyard dominated by the honden (main hall). Behind the honden, a trail leads off to the mountain’s peak.
At the top, you can take a brief detour across the ridge to Ōsugi-gongen, a quiet shrine in a grove of trees. Those who want to continue to Kibune can take the trail down the other side. It’s a 1.2km, 30-minute hike from the honden to the valley floor of Kibune. On the way down are two pleasant mountain shrines, Sōjō-ga-dani Fudō-dō and Okuno-in Maō-den.
Kurama Onsen
One of the few onsen within easy reach of Kyoto, Kurama Onsen (Map; 741-2131; 520 Honmachi, Kurama, Sakyō-ku; admission to outdoor/indoor bath ¥1100/2300; 10am-9pm) is a great place to relax after a hike. The outdoor bath has a fine view of Kurama-yama; even with the use of sauna and locker thrown in, it’s difficult to imagine why one would opt for the indoor bath. For both, buy a ticket from the machine outside the door of the main building (instructions are in Japanese and English).
To get to Kurama Onsen, walk straight out of Kurama Station, turn left up the main road and follow it for about 10 minutes. You’ll see the baths down on your right. There’s also a free shuttle bus that runs between the station and the onsen, leaving approximately every 30 minutes.
Kibune-jinja
This shrine (Map; 741-2016; 180 Kibune-chō Kurama, Sakyō-ku; admission free; 6am-8pm, earlier Dec-Feb), halfway up the valley-town of Kibune, is worth a quick look, particularly if you can ignore the unfortunate plastic horse statue at its entrance. From Kibune you can hike over the mountain to Kurama-dera, along a trail that starts halfway