Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [285]
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
Kyoto is served by Osaka Itami airport, which principally handles domestic traffic, and the new Kansai International Airport (KIX), which principally handles international flights. There are frequent flights between Tokyo and Itami (¥22,600, 65 minutes), but unless you’re very lucky with airport connections you’ll probably find it as quick and more convenient to take the shinkansen. There are ample connections to/from both airports, though the trip to/from Kansai International Airport takes longer and costs more.
Bus
The overnight bus (JR Dream Kyoto Go) runs between Tokyo Station (Yaesu-guchi long-distance bus stop) and Kyoto Station Bus Terminal (Map).
The trip takes about eight hours and there are usually two departures nightly in either direction, at 10pm (Friday, Saturday, Sunday and holidays) and 11pm (daily). The fare is ¥8180/14,480 one way/return. You should be able to grab some sleep in the reclining seats. There is a similar service to/from Shinjuku Station’s Shin-minami-guchi in Tokyo.
Other JR bus transport possibilities include Kanazawa (one way/return ¥4060/6600) and Hiroshima (¥5500/10,000).
Hitching
Although we never recommend it, for long-distance hitching head for the Kyoto-Minami Interchange of the Meishin Expressway (Map), about 4km south of Kyoto Station. Take bus 19 from Kyoto Station and get off when you reach the Meishin Expressway signs. From here you can hitch east towards Tokyo or west to southern Japan.
Train
SHINKANSEN (TOKYO, OSAKA, NAGOYA & HAKATA)
Kyoto is on the Tōkaidō-San-yō shinkansen line, which runs between Tokyo and northern Kyūshū, with stops at places like Nagoya, Osaka, Kōbe, Himeji and Hiroshima en route. Fares and times for Hikari (the second-fastest type of shinkansen) between Kyoto and the following cities are as follows: Tokyo (¥13,220, two hours 43 minutes); Nagoya (¥5440, 40 minutes); Osaka (¥2730, 15 minutes); Hiroshima (¥9540, 1½ hours); and Hakata (¥15,210, three hours 22 minutes). The shinkansen operates to/from Kyoto Station (Kyoto’s main train station). On the Tokyo end, it operates from Tokyo, Shinagawa and Shin-Yokohama Stations.
NARA
The private Kintetsu line (sometimes written in English as the Kinki Nippon railway) links Kyoto (Kintetsu Kyoto Station, on the south side of the main Kyoto Station building) and Nara (Kintetsu Nara Station). There are fast direct tokkyū (¥1110, 33 minutes) and ordinary express trains (¥610, 40 minutes), which may require a change at Saidai-ji.
The JR Nara line also connects Kyoto Station with JR Nara Station (express, ¥690, 41 minutes), and this is a great option for Japan Rail Pass holders.
OSAKA
The fastest train other than the shinkansen between Kyoto Station and Osaka is the JR shinkaisoku (special rapid train), which takes 29 minutes (¥540). In Osaka, the train stops at both Shin-Osaka and Osaka Stations.
There is also the cheaper private Hankyū line, which runs between Hankyū Kawaramachi, Karasuma and Ōmiya Stations in Kyoto and Hankyū Umeda Station in Osaka (tokkyū or limited express Umeda–Kawaramachi, ¥390, 40 minutes). These trains are usually more comfortable than the JR trains, and if you board at Kawaramachi or Umeda, you can usually get a seat.
Alternatively, you can take the Keihan main line between Demachiyanagi, Sanjō, Shijō or Shichijō Stations in Kyoto and Keihan Yodoyabashi Station in Osaka (tokkyū to/from Sanjō ¥400, 51 minutes). Yodoyabashi is on the Midō-suji subway line. Again, these are more comfortable than JR trains and you can usually get a seat if you board in Demachiyanagi or Yodoyabashi.
TOKYO
The shinkansen line has the fastest and most frequent rail links. The journey can also be undertaken by a series of regular JR express trains, but keep in mind that it takes around eight hours and involves at least two (often three or four) changes along the way. The fare is ¥7980. Get the staff at the ticket counter to write down the exact details of each transfer for you when you buy your ticket.
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GETTING AROUND
To/From the