Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [293]
Sleeping
One of the best ways to see Tango-hantō is with Two to Tango (www.thedivyam.com; lodging & 2½-day all-inclusive tour per person ¥100,000), an exclusive tour of the Tango peninsula offered by a French resident of Kyoto-fu. Guests stay in a secluded farmhouse in Kurumi-dani (a six-house hamlet in the heart of Tango-hantō) and drive over scenic roads to beautiful onsen, excellent restaurants and lovely beaches. Everything is taken care of, including driving and guiding. The tour gives you an intimate look at a side of Japan rarely glimpsed by foreign travellers.
There are several fine minshuku in the small village of Ine, including Yoza-sō (; 0772-32-0278; 507 Hirata; per person with 2 meals from ¥9000).
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AMANOHASHIDATE
0772 / pop 21,000
Amanohashidate (the Bridge to Heaven) is rated as one of Japan’s ‘three great views’. The ‘bridge’ is really a long, narrow, tree-covered (8000 pine trees!) sand-spit, 3.5km in length. There is good swimming, as well as beach showers, toilet facilities and covered rest areas, the length of the spit. It’s a good example of a Japanese tourist circus, but it is pleasant enough and there are some decent attractions like Ine (left) in the vicinity.
The town of Amanohashidate consists of two separate parts, one at each end of the spit. At the southern end there are a number of hotels, ryokan and restaurants, a popular temple and Amanohashidate Station. There’s an information counter (22-8030; 10am-6pm) at the station. To get to the bridge from the station, take a right out of the station and walk along the main road for 200m to the first light and take a sharp left.
At the southern end of the bridge, Amanohashidate View Land (; chairlift/monorail round-trip ¥850; 9.10am-5pm, 8.40am-6pm Jul 21-Aug 20) is serviced by chairlift and monorail. From here, you are supposed to view Amanohashidate by turning your back to it, bending over and observing it framed between your legs! (It supposedly makes Amanohashidate look like it is ‘floating’.)
At the northern end, Kasamatsu-kōen (; funicular/chairlift round-trip ¥640; 8am-4.30pm) offers similar views and another chance to view the world from between your legs.
Sleeping & Eating
Amanohashidate Youth Hostel (; 27-0121; per person with/without 2 meals ¥4500/2950;) This fine YH has good views down towards Amanohashidate, friendly owners, well-kept rooms and an excellent hillside location. To get there take a bus (¥510, 20 minutes) from JR Amanohashidate Station and get off at the Jinja-mae bus stop. From the stop, walk to the main hall of the shrine, take a right and leave the shrine precinct then turn left up the hill and walk 50m, take a right and follow the sign for Manai Shrine. Turn at the stone torii, walk 200m uphill and it’s on the right.
Amanohashidate Hotel (; 22-4111; per person with 2 meals from ¥20,000; ) This hotel about 100m west of the station commands the best views of Amanohashidate. Rooms are mixed Japanese/Western style and there are several good communal baths that afford views of Amanohashidate and the bay. The hotel serves special crab cuisine in winter. Wi-fi is in the lobby.
There are several decent but slightly overpriced shokudō at the southern end of Amanohashidate, including Resutoran Monju (; 22-2805; meals from ¥1000; 9.30am-4pm, closed Thu), which has asari udon (udon noodles with clams), a local speciality, for ¥1000. Look for the red-and-white sign as you approach Chion-ji (the temple at the southern end of Amanohashidate).
Getting There & Away
The Kita-kinki Tango Tetsudō line runs between JR stations at Toyooka to the west and Nishi-Maizuru to the east. Amanohashidate Station is on this line, 1¼ hours from Toyooka (futsū, ¥1160) and 40 minutes from Nishi-Maizuru (futsū, ¥620). There are several direct trains from Kyoto daily, but JR pass holders will have to fork out for the Kita-kinki Tango Tetsudō part of the route (from Kyoto ¥4180, two hours; from Osaka ¥5040, 2¼ hours).
Getting Around
You can cross Amanohashidate on foot, by bicycle or on a motorcycle of less than