Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [301]
Tenjin Matsuri Held on 24 and 25 July, this is one of Japan’s three biggest festivals. Try to make the second day, when processions of mikoshi (portable shrines) and people in traditional attire start at Osaka Temman-gū and end up in O-kawa (in boats). As night falls, the festival is marked with a huge fireworks display.
Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri Osaka’s wildest festival on 14 and 15 September, a kind of running of the bulls except with danjiri (festival floats), many weighing over 3000kg. The danjiri are hauled through the streets by hundreds of people using ropes, and in all the excitement there have been a couple of deaths – take care and stand back. Most of the action takes place on the second day. The best place to see it is west of Kishiwada Station on the Nankai Honsen line (from Nankai Station).
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SLEEPING
There are plenty of places to stay in and around the two centres of Kita and Minami. You can also explore Osaka from a base in Kyoto, and you’ll find more budget accommodation in the old capital, which is only about 40 minutes away by train. Keep in mind, however, that the trains stop running a little before midnight (party-goers take note).
Kita Area
BUDGET
Capsule Inn Osaka/Umeda New Japan Sauna (Map; 6314-2100; 9-5 Dōyama-chō, Kita-ku; men-only capsules ¥2600; ; Hankyū line to Umeda or JR line to Osaka) Located in one of Kita’s busiest entertainment districts, this is the place to stay if you miss the last train. It’s fairly clean and well maintained, with sauna (from ¥525), Jacuzzi and optional massage services. Note that it’s men-only, and if you’re over 180cm tall you won’t be able to lie flat out.
MIDRANGE
Hotel Sunroute Umeda (Map; 6373-1111; www.sunroute.jp/SunrouteTopHLE.html; 3-9-1 Toyosaki, Kita-ku; s/d/tw from ¥8820/12,600/15,750; ; Midō-suji subway line to Nakatsu) A good business hotel, and perhaps the best value in this price range, the Sunroute hits all the right notes: clean rooms, efficient check-in and excellent location. Some of the rooms even have great views over Osaka. It’s just north of Hankyū Umeda. Cable LAN available in rooms.
TOP END
Hotel Granvia Osaka (Map; 6344-1235; www.granvia-osaka.jp/english/index.html; 3-1-1 Umeda, Kita-ku; s/d/tw ¥16,170/26,565/27,720; ; JR line to Osaka) This hotel can’t be beaten for convenience: it’s located directly over Osaka Station. Rooms and facilities are of a high standard and the views from the restaurants on the upper floors of the building are superb. Cable LAN available in rooms.
Hilton Osaka (Map; 6347-7111; 1-8-8 Umeda, Kita-ku; s ¥18,000-36,000, d & tw ¥22,000-40,000; ; JR line to Osaka) Just south of JR Osaka Station, this is an excellent hotel at home with foreign guests. The rooms are clean and light, with a Japanese touch, and there’s a 15m pool in the fitness centre. The views from the 35th-floor Windows on the World bar here are awesome, and there are two floors of great restaurants below the hotel. Cable LAN available in rooms.
Ritz-Carlton Osaka (Map; 6343-7000; www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/Osaka/Default.htm; 2-5-25 Umeda, Kita-ku; s/d/tw from ¥31,000/37,000/37,000; ; Hanshin line to Umeda, west exit, or JR line to Osaka, Sakurabashi exit) A short walk from JR Osaka and Hankyū Umeda Stations in Kita, the Ritz Carlton is one of the best hotels in the city. Rooms are well appointed, comfortable and spacious, and the staff is polite and efficient. There is a pool, fitness centre and 24-hour business centre, as well as six on-site restaurants.
Hotel Hankyū International (Map; 6377-2100; www.hhi.co.jp/new2002/e-index.html; 19-19 Chayamachi, Kita-ku; s/d/tw from ¥34,650/46,200/48,510; ; Midō-suji subway line to Nakatsu or Hankyū line to Umeda) North of Hankyū Umeda Station, this is a good choice for comfort near the station. Rooms are Western size and everything is polished, right down to the marble bathrooms. The hinoki (cypress) wooden bathtubs in the Japanese suites are a special touch. Cable LAN available