Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [306]
Murphy’s (Map; 6282-0677; 1-6-31 Higashi-Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; average cost per person ¥700-1000; 5pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; Sakaisuji subway line to Nagahoribashi) This is one of the oldest Irish-style pubs in Japan, and a good place to rub shoulders with local expats and Japanese. It’s on the 6th floor of the Reed Plaza Shinsaibashi building, a futuristic building with what looks like a rocket moulded into the front.
SoulFuckTry (Map; 6539-1032; 1-9-14 Minami Horie, Nishi-ku; drinks from ¥700; Yotsubashi subway line to Yotsubashi) This interestingly named bar-club describes itself as a soul disco, and that pretty much nails it. It attracts some interesting DJs and recently played host to Japanese turntable wunderkinds Sara and Ryusei. Turn down the narrow street opposite Eneos gas station.
Cellar (Map; 6212-6437; B1 Shin-sumiya Bldg, 2-17-13 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; Midō-suji subway line to Shinsaibashi) Live music is often the draw at this popular basement bar on the west side of Nishi-Shinsaibashi. Look for the entrance to the stairs a few metres north of the corner.
Tavola 36 (Map; 6646-5125; 5-1-60 Namba, Chūō-ku; 11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, 11am-midnight Sat, to 11.30pm Sun & holidays; Nankai Main line to Namba) If you want drinks, a killer view and upscale surroundings, this is the place to be in Minami. It’s an Italian restaurant-bar on the 36th floor of the Swissotel Nankai Osaka. There’s a ¥1260-per-person table charge after 6pm and drinks start at ¥1200.
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ENTERTAINMENT
For up-to-date listings of forthcoming club events, check Kansai Time Out.
Clubs
Karma (Map; 6344-6181; 1-5-18 Sonezakishinchi, Kita-ku; JR line to Osaka) A long-standing club in Kita that is popular with Japanese and foreigners alike. On weekends it usually hosts techno events with cover charges averaging ¥2500.
Grand Café (Map; 6213-8637; 2-10-21 Nishi-Shinsaibashi, Chūō-ku; Midō-suji or Yotsubashi subway line to Shinsaibashi) This hip underground club hosts a variety of electronica-DJ events. There’s a comfy seating area and several dance floors. Look for the blue sign at street level.
Traditional Japanese Entertainment
Unfortunately, neither of the following places has regularly scheduled shows. The best thing is to check with the tourist information offices about current shows, check the listings in the Meet Osaka guide or look in Kansai Time Out.
National Bunraku Theatre (Map; 6212-2531; 1-12-10 Nipponbashi, Chūō-ku; Sennichi-mae or Sakai-suji subway line to Nipponbashi) Although bunraku, or puppet theatre, did not originate in Osaka, the art form was popularised at this theatre. The most famous bunraku playwright, Chikametsu Monzaemon (1653–1724), wrote plays set in Osaka concerning the classes that traditionally had no place in Japanese art: merchants and the denizens of the pleasure quarters. Not surprisingly, bunraku found a wide audience among these people, and a theatre was established to put on the plays of Chikametsu in Dōtombori. Today’s theatre is an attempt to revive the fortunes of bunraku. Performances are only held at certain times of the year: check with the tourist info offices. Tickets normally start at around ¥2500; earphones and program guides in English are available. This is probably the best place in Japan to see bunraku. Just be warned that performances sell out quickly.
Osaka Nōgaku Hall (Map; 6373-1726; 2-3-17 Nakasakinishi, Kita-ku; JR line to Osaka) A five-minute walk east of Osaka Station, this hall holds nō shows about twice a month, most of which cost ¥5000 to ¥6000.
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