Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [315]
To get there, take bus 8 from Himeji Station (bus terminal East; ¥260, 28 minutes). Get off at ‘Shosha Ropeway’, and board the cable car (one way/return ¥500/900). The trip takes about half a day from downtown Himeji.
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS
The Nada-no-Kenka Matsuri, held on 14 and 15 October, involves a battle between three mikoshi that are battered against each other until one smashes. Try to go on the second day, when the festival reaches its peak (around noon). The festival is held five minutes’ walk from Shirahamanomiya Station (10 minutes from Himeji Station on the Sanyō-Dentetsu line); follow the crowds. The train company lays on extra trains on the day of the matsuri.
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SLEEPING
Himeji is best visited as a day trip from other parts of Kansai. If you’d like to stay, however, there are plenty of choices.
Tōyoko Inn (284-1045; 97 Minamiekimae-chō; s/d/tw ¥5880/7980/7980;) This new business hotel is a good choice if you want to be close to the station. The rooms are serviceable, well maintained and, as usual in a business hotel, fairly small. There is LAN internet.
Himeji Washington Hotel Plaza (225-0111; 98 Higashiekimae-chō; s/d ¥5800/11,000; ) This centrally located business hotel is pretty much everything a good hotel should be: well run and clean with reasonable-sized rooms (for a business hotel, that is). It’s within easy walking distance of the castle and lots of restaurants. There is free LAN internet and rental computers are available.
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HIMEJI-Jō RENOVATION
Visitors to Himeji should note that the city’s castle, Himeji-jō, will be undergoing a massive renovation from late 2009 until early 2014. During most of this period, the main keep of the castle will be covered by a scaffoldlike structure that will obscure the keep from view. The rest of the castle will not be covered by any structure. It will be possible to enter the castle during the reconstruction period, although some areas may be closed to the public from time to time.
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Comfort Hotel Himeji (286-8511; 1-50-3 Hojo-guchi; d/tw ¥8500/10,000; ) Three blocks from the main entrances to Himeji’s shopping arcades, this three-year-old business hotel is one of the cheapest and most convenient in town. The rooms have free wi-fi and a free continental breakfast is served downstairs. Rooms are small but well designed, with all the newest Japanese hotel gadgetry (flat-screen TV, hi-tech toilet, eco shampoo-dispensers).
Hotel Nikkō Himeji (222-2231; 100 Minamiekimae-chō; s/d/tw ¥10,925/20,700/20,700; ) A stone’s throw from the south side of the station, this hotel has stylish and fairly spacious rooms and is the best choice for those who want something nicer than a business hotel. The rooms are larger than in the preceding business hotels and the bathtubs have almost enough room to stretch out. Some of the upper rooms on the north side have views of the top of the castle. There is LAN internet.
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EATING
The food court in the underground mall at JR Himeji Station has all the usual Western and Japanese dishes. It’s just to the right as you exit the north ticket gate of the station. Otherwise, you’ll find the following choices in the streets between the station and the castle.
Me-n-me (225-0118; 68 Honmachi; noodles from ¥550; 11.30am-6pm, closed Wed) They make their own noodles at this homey little noodle joint a few minutes’ walk from the castle. It’s not fancy, but if you want an honest, tasty bowl of udon to power you through the day, this is the spot. They usually put an English sign on the street. English menu.
Rāmen-no-Hōryū (288-1230; 316 Eki-mae-chō; buta miso rāmen ¥990; 11.30am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 11pm Sun & holidays) For good