Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [317]
At this time it was decreed that a permanent capital be built. Two locations were tried before a permanent capital was finally established at Nara (which was then known as Heijōkyō) in 710. Permanent status, however, lasted a mere 75 years. When a priest by the name of Dōkyō managed to seduce an empress and nearly usurp the throne, it was decided to move the court to a new location, out of reach of Nara’s increasingly powerful clergy. This led to the new capital being established at Kyoto, where it remained until 1868.
Although brief, the Nara period was extraordinarily vigorous in its absorption of influences from China, a process that laid the foundations of Japanese culture and civilisation. The adoption of Buddhism as a national religion made a lasting impact on government, arts, literature and architecture.
With the exception of an assault on the area by the Taira clan in the 12th century, Nara was subsequently spared the periodic bouts of destruction wreaked upon Kyoto, and a number of magnificent buildings have survived.
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ORIENTATION
Nara retains the grid pattern of streets laid out in Chinese style during the 8th century. There are two main train stations: JR Nara Station and Kintetsu Nara Station. JR Nara Station is a little west of the city centre (but still within walking distance of the sights), while Kintetsu Nara is central. Nara-kōen, which contains most of the important sights, is on the eastern side, against the bare flank of Wakakusa-yama. Most of the other sights are southwest of the city and are best reached by buses that leave from both train stations (or by train in the case of Hōryū-ji). It’s easy to cover the city centre and the major attractions in nearby Nara-kōen on foot, though some may prefer to rent a bicycle (Click here).
Maps
Nara tourist information offices stock the useful Welcome to Nara Sight Seeing Map.
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INFORMATION
The main Nara City Tourist Center (22-3900; 23-4 Kamisanjō-chō; 9am-9pm, closed year-end/new-year holidays) is worth a stop if you start your sightseeing from JR Nara Station. If you start from Kintetsu Nara Station, try the helpful Kintetsu Nara Station information office (24-4858; 9am-5pm), which is near the top of the stairs above exit 3 from the station.
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NARA UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES
In 1998 eight sites in Nara were designated as World Heritage Sites by the UN. They are the Buddhist temples of Tōdai-ji, Kōfuku-ji, Gango-ji, Yakushi-ji and Tōshōdai-ji; the shrine, Kasuga Taisha; Kasuga-yama Primeval Forest; and the remains of Heijō-kyō Palace. Five are covered in detail in the text; of the remaining three, Kasuga-yama Primeval Forest is directly behind Kasuga Taisha, Gango-ji is in Naramachi, and the Heijō-kyō Palace ruins are 10 minutes’ walk east of Saidai-ji Station on the Kintetsu line.
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There are two other information offices in Nara: the JR Nara Station office (22-9821; 9am-5pm) and the Sarusawa Tourist Information Office (26-1991; 9am-5pm).
The information centres can put you in touch with volunteer guides who speak English and other foreign languages, but you must book at least one day in advance. Two of these services are the YMCA Goodwill Guides (45-5920; www.geocities.com/egg_nara) and Nara Student Guides (26-4753; www.narastudentguide.org).
Outside the NTT telephone company office on Sanjō-dōri there is an IC Card international phone. For internet, try the following place:
Internet Café Suien (22-2577; 1-58 Aburasaka-chō; internet per hr ¥200, 2hr with one drink ¥500; 7.30am-11pm) Inside Hotel Asyl Nara.
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SIGHTS
Nara-kōen Area
Many of Nara’s most important sites are located in Nara-kōen, a fine park that occupies much of the east side of the city. The park is home to about 1200 deer, which in pre-Buddhist times were considered messengers of the gods and today enjoy the status of National Treasures. They roam the park and surrounding areas in search of handouts from tourists, often descending