Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [330]
The JR Kii main line (Kinokuni line) runs around the coast of the Kii-hantō, linking Shin-Osaka and Nagoya Stations (some trains originate/terminate at Kyoto Station). Special Kuroshio and Nankii tokkyū trains can get you around the peninsula fairly quickly, but once you step off these express trains you’re at the mercy of slow local trains and buses, so plan accordingly. For this reason, renting a car is a good option for exploring this area.
We present the information in this section anticlockwise, working from Wakayama-shi around the horn to Mie-ken, but it’s perfectly possible to do this the other way round (perhaps starting in Ise).
Return to beginning of chapter
WAKAYAMA
073 / pop 371,100
Wakayama, the prefectural capital, is a pleasant little city useful as a transport hub for travellers heading to other parts of the prefecture. The main attraction here is the city’s rebuilt castle, a short walk west of the station.
There is a useful tourist information counter (422-5831; 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 5.15pm Sun & holidays) inside JR Wakayama Station, which stocks copies of the excellent Wakayama City Guide map.
Sights & Activities
WAKAYAMA-JŌ
The city’s main attraction is Wakayama-jō (435-1044; 3 Ichiban-chō; admission to grounds/castle keep free/¥350; 9am-4.30pm). The original castle was built in 1585 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi and destroyed by bombing in WWII. The present structure is a concrete postwar reconstruction; it’s picturesque from afar and unprepossessing up close. However, the gardens surrounding the castle are well worth a stroll if you’re in the area. Last entry by 4pm.
The castle is a 20-minute walk (about 1.8km) west of JR Wakayama Station. Alternatively, it’s about a 10-minute walk (about 1km) south of Wakayama-shi Station.
MUSEUM OF MODERN ART WAKAYAMA
A short walk from the castle, this museum (436-8690; 1-4-14 Fukiage; admission ¥310, extra for special exhibitions; 9.30am-5pm, closed Mon) is worth a visit for its unique building and small but interesting collection of Japanese and Western 20th-century art. The collection contains, among other things, 4000 block prints, and works by Picasso, Miró and Klee. The museum is across the street south of the castle.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Granvia Wakayama (; 425-3333; hotel@granvia-wakayama.co.jp; 5-18 Tomoda-chō; s/d/tw ¥10,164/17,902/19,635; ) This place is right outside the station and offers new, clean rooms. It’s centrally located and fairly convenient to the sights and restaurants. There is LAN cable internet in rooms.
Mendori-tei (; 422-3355; 478 Yoshida; 10am-10pm) For a bite to eat, head to the restaurant arcade on the basement floor beneath JR Wakayama Station. Mendori-tei is one of our favourites here. It serves excellent tonkatsu dishes (try the tonkatsu teishoku for ¥980). Look for the brown curtains and the all-counter seating. If you fancy something a little lighter, there are several choices nearby.
Getting There & Away
Wakayama is serviced by JR tokkyū trains from Shin-Osaka and Kyoto, but unless you’ve got a Japan Rail Pass it’s cheaper to take a local train on the JR Hanwa line from Osaka’s Tennō-ji Station (kaisoku, ¥830, 65 minutes). From Osaka’s Namba Station you can also take the private Nankai line to Wakayama-shi Station (kyūkō, ¥890, 63 minutes), which is linked to JR Wakayama Station by the JR Kisei main line (futsū, ¥180, six minutes).
Return to beginning of chapter
KŌYA-SAN
0736 / pop 4090
Kōya-san is a raised tableland in northern Wakayama-ken covered with thick forests and surrounded by eight peaks. The major attraction here is the Kōya-san monastic complex,