Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [343]
Hire a bike and pedal yourself from Honshū to Shikoku over the Shimanami Kaidō
See where the gods go on holiday at Izumo Taisha
Have your mind bent pleasantly out of shape at the art installations of Honmura on Naoshima
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History
Because of its proximity to the Korean peninsula and China, the Western Honshū region has long been a gateway for continental influences. Buddhism and the Chinese writing system entered Japan through this part of the country in the 6th century. During his Korean peninsula campaigns in 1592 and 1598, Toyotomi Hideyoshi abducted whole families of potters as growing interest in the tea ceremony generated desire for the finest Korean ceramics. The firing techniques brought over all those centuries ago live on in Japanese ceramics today.
Climate
The Western Honshū region is generally mild and comfortable. On the San-in coast by the Sea of Japan the temperatures are cooler than on the San-yō coast of the Inland Sea, and winters can be snowy. The Inland Sea coast is known as the hare no kuni (land of sunshine) thanks to its moderate temperatures and low rainfall.
Getting There & Away
The shinkansen (bullet train) along the San-yō coast is the fastest way to get around. On the San-in coast, the shinkansen is not an option, though tokkyū (limited express) trains will limit changes and shorten travel times by up to half. Between the San-yō and San-in coasts it’s often quicker to go by bus. The major rail link between the two coasts runs between Okayama on the Inland Sea coast and Yonago in Tottori-ken on the Sea of Japan.
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OKAYAMA-KEN
Okayama-ken is known for its rural character, and the villa at Hattōji offers one of Japan’s great countryside getaways. Kurashiki is popular for its museums and well-preserved historical quarter. Further west, the city of Kasaoka is the jumping-off point for some unspoilt islands in the Inland Sea. From Okayama there are road and rail links with Shikoku via the Seto-ōhashi bridge.
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OKAYAMA
086 / pop 630,000
The laid-back capital is a major transportation hub, an important regional city, and of interest to travellers as the location of the Kōraku-en, one of Japan’s top three gardens, overlooked by the city’s castle. The city prides itself on its connection to Momotarō, the demon-quelling boy hero of one of Japan’s best-known folktales, whose smiling face beams out at you all over town. Okayama makes a good base for day trips out to the well-preserved merchant town of Kurashiki, and to the ancient pottery area of Bizen, and for cycle excursions to the countryside of the Kibi Plain.
Orientation
The main street, Momotarō-Ōdōri, leads eastward from the station to the castle and the famous garden, Kōraku-en, about 1.5km away. Trams (¥100 for the castle area) run down the middle of the street.
Information
Bank of Tokyo-Mitsubishi UFJ (223-9211; 6-36 Honmachi; 9am-3pm Mon-Fri) Cashes travellers cheques.
Club Mont Blanc (224-7050; 6th fl, Dai-ichi Central Bldg, 6-30 Honmachi; internet per 1st 30min ¥290, per extra 15min ¥100; 24hr) Opposite the station, to the right as you exit.
JTB Travel (232-3810; 1-7-36 Omote-chō; 10am-6pm) This travel agency is around by the Kenchō-dōri tram stop.
Maruzen (233-4640; 1-5-1 Omote-chō; 10am-8pm) This bookshop is on the ground floor of the Symphony Building. Has a good selection of books in English.
Okayama Central Post Office (227-2757; 2-1-1 Naka Sange; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, to 12.30pm Sun) At the corner of Yanagawa-suji and Kenchō-dōri.
Okayama International Centre (256-2914; www.opief.or.jp/english; 2-2-1 Hōkan-chō; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Has information in English on sights throughout Okayama prefecture.
Tourist Information Counter (222-2912; 1-1 Ekimoto-machi; 9am-6pm) In the station, by the entrance to the Shinkansen tracks.
Sights
KŌRAKU-EN
Overlooked by the castle and built on the orders of the daimyō (regional lord) Ikeda Tsunemasa, Kōraku-en (272-1148; 1-5 Kōraku-en; admission ¥350; 7.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, 8am-5pm Oct-Mar;