Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [345]
Momotarō may actually have been a Yamato prince who was deified as Kibitsuhiko. His shrine, Kibitsu-jinja, lies along the route of the Kibi Plain bicycle ride (see boxed text).
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Festivals & Events
The Saidai-ji Eyō, also known as the Hadaka Matsuri (Naked Festival), takes place on the third Saturday in February at the Kannon-in temple in Saidai-ji. A chaotic crowd of around 10,000 men in loincloths and tabi (split-toed Japanese socks) fight over two sacred shingi (wooden batons) while freezing water is poured over them. The fun kicks off at 10pm.
Sleeping
Matsunoki Ryokan (253-4111; www.matunoki.com; 19-1 Ekimoto-chō; s/tw with 2 meals ¥4200/6000, without bath ¥3900/5800; ) A short walk from the station, Matsunoki has both Japanese- and Western-style rooms, most with private bathrooms.
Saiwai-sō (254-0020; http://w150.j.fiw-web.net, in Japanese; 24-8 Ekimoto-chō; s/tw from ¥4200/7600; ) A five-minute walk west of the station, Okayama’s ‘first business hotel’ offers comfortable rooms, some with shared bathrooms. Look for the lilac building.
Okayama View Hotel (224-2000; www.okaview.jp, in Japanese; 1-11-17 Naka Sange; s/tw from ¥5800/8400; ). Comfortable place between the station and castle with facilities a cut above the average, including ‘fusion’ rooms with Western beds and Japanese fittings.
Comfort Hotel Okayama (801-9411; www.choice-hotels.jp/cfoka; 1-1-13 Marunouchi; s/tw with breakfast from ¥5800/8500; ) A well-appointed business hotel close to the castle and park.
Tōyoko Inn Nishi-Guchi Hiroba (251-1045; www.toyoko-inn.com; 22-10 Ekimoto-chō; s/tw with breakfast from ¥6090/8200; ) Dependable chain hotel a couple of minutes from the station, providing all the usual business-hotel comforts, including LAN internet in all rooms.
Kōraku Hotel (221-7111; www.hotel.kooraku.co.jp; 5-1 Heiwa-chō; s/tw from ¥6930/9200; ) A five-minute walk from the station, this luxurious midrange hotel offers comfortably sized rooms and welcoming staff. A convenience store and restaurant are on site, and there’s also a business centre with free internet access.
Hotel Granvia Okayama (234-7000; www.granvia-oka.co.jp; 1-5 Ekimoto-chō; s/tw from ¥9817/18,480; ) This landmark building on top of the station has decent-sized rooms with LAN internet. There are several restaurants on site, as well as a gym and pool. This is where Okayama comes to get married on weekends.
ANA Hotel Okayama (898-1111; www.anahotel-okayama.com, in Japanese; 15-1 Ekimoto-chō; s/tw from ¥13,860/24,255; ) A luxurious modern hotel less than a minute’s walk from the west exit of the station, featuring gorgeous rooms (with LAN internet) as well as several restaurants and bars – there are great views from the ‘Sky Bar’ on the 20th floor.
Eating
Tori-soba Ōta (236-0310; 1-7-24 Omote-chō; dishes ¥650-990; 11am-8pm; ) The name of this little countertop restaurant is also its trademark dish: tori-soba (steaming bowls of noodles packed with chicken and served in a tasty broth; ¥650). Has Japanese menu only. Look for the big blue canvas noren (the sign indicating that the restaurant is open) opposite Chūgoku Bank.
Quiet Village Curry Shop (231-4100; 1-6-43 Omote-chō; dishes ¥780-1000; 11.30am-7pm, closed Mon) This tiny curry restaurant consists of one long table, where the Japanese-only menu is disguised as an Indian book. Some English is spoken. Chicken curry and dahl each cost ¥780.
Okabe (222-1404; 1-10-1 Omote-chō; dishes ¥800-850; 11.30am-2.30pm, closed Sun) This street-corner tofu restaurant is recognisable by the big illustration of a heavily laden tofu seller in a straw hat. Squeeze in at the counter and watch the team of women chopping and frying as you wait. There are only two things on the menu: an okabe teishoku (set meal with several types of tofu; ¥800) and a nama yuba don teishoku (dried ‘tofu skin’ on rice, with soup; ¥850).
Biroku Omote-chō Koroku (227-0569; 2-4-56 Omote-chō; dishes ¥800-1500;5-11pm, closed Tue) A relaxed little izakaya (pub-eatery) on a quiet street off