Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [356]
HIROSHIMA-JŌ
Also known as Carp Castle (Rijō; ), Hiroshima-jō (Hiroshima Castle; 221-7512; 21-1 Moto-machi, Naka-ku; admission ¥360; 9am-6pm Mar-Nov, to 5pm Dec-Feb) was originally constructed in 1589, but much of it was dismantled following the Meiji Restoration, leaving only the donjon, main gates and turrets. The remainder was totally destroyed by the bomb and rebuilt in 1958. There’s not a lot to see inside, but the surrounding park is a pleasant place for a stroll.
SHUKKEI-EN
Modelled after Xi Hu (West Lake) in Hangzhou, China, Shukkei-en (2-11 Kami-nobori-chō; admission ¥250, combined ticket with museum ¥600; 9am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar) was built in 1620 for daimyō Asano Nagaakira. The garden’s name means ‘contracted view’, and it attempts to re-create grand vistas in miniature. It was totally destroyed by the bomb, though many of the trees and plants survived to blossom again the following year, and the park and its buildings have long since been restored to their original splendour.
Next to the garden is the Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum (2-22 Kami-nobori-chō; admission ¥500, combined ticket with garden ¥600; 9am-5pm, to 7pm Sat, closed Mon), where the highlight is Salvador Dali’s Dream of Venus. If you have a combined ticket you can enter the museum via the garden.
OTHER SIGHTS
Hijiyama-kōen, a park noted for its cherry blossoms in spring, is a 20-minute walk south of JR Hiroshima station. Inside the park is the Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art (264-1121; 1-1 Hijiyama-kōen, Minami-ku; admission ¥360, additional fee for temporary exhibits; 10am-5pm, closed Mon), which has frequently changing exhibits by modern Japanese and international artists.
The Hiroshima Museum of Art (223-2530; 3-2 Moto-machi, Naka-ku; admission ¥1000; 9am-5pm) is in an interesting 1970s building that was built by the Hiroshima Bank. It has a decent collection of minor works by well-known painters, including Picasso, Gaughin, Monet and Van Gogh. The museum is in Hanover Park, just southwest of the castle. The Mazda Museum (; www.mazda.com/mazdaspirit/museum; 252-5050; English tours 1pm Mon-Fri) is quite popular, because you get to see the 7km assembly line – the longest in the world. Details are available on the English-language website. Reservations are required. The museum is a short walk from JR Mukainada () Station, two stops from Hiroshima on the San-yō line.
Activities
A love of baseball is not a prerequisite for having a great time at a Hiroshima Carp game (www.carp.co.jp, in Japanese). It’s just as much fun watching the rowdy, organised enthusiasm of the crowd, especially when the despised Tokyo Giants come to town. After playing for decades in the heart of the city near the A-Bomb Dome, in spring 2009 the Carp moved to the new Mazda Zoom-Zoom Stadium, a short walk southeast of the station.
Miyajima, 25km west of the city, makes an easy day trip from Hiroshima, possibly combined with Iwakuni in Yamaguchi-ken Click here.
A variety of lunch and dinner cruises run from Hiroshima to Miyajima and back. On weekdays from March to September day cruises operate through the Inland Sea. Tickets can be bought through Japan Travel Bureau (JTB) or online at www.setonaikaikisen.co.jp, in Japanese.
Festivals & Events
On 6 August, the anniversary of the atomic bombing, a memorial service is held in Peace Memorial Park and thousands of paper lanterns for the souls of the dead are floated down the Ōta-gawa from in front of the A-Bomb Dome.
Sleeping
BUDGET
J-Hoppers Hiroshima (233-1360; http://hiroshima.j-hoppers.com/; 5-16 Dobashi-chō, Naka-ku; dm/tw per person with shared bathroom ¥2300/3000; ) Friendly and popular backpackers hostel, with dorm beds and private tatami rooms. Internet access is available in the common room, and bikes can be rented (¥500 per day). The young staff