Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [358]
Zucchini (546-0777; 1-5-18 Otemachi Naka-ku; meals ¥400-2800; 5.30pm-1am) Very lively Spanish-style tapas restaurant serving all the usual ham, cheese and fish goodies and paellas from ¥1400. It’s a two-storey glass-fronted affair on the corner – you can’t miss it. There’s an English menu.
Hassei (242-8123; 4-17 Fujimi-chō Naka-ku; dishes ¥450-1200; lunch & dinner, dinner only Sun, closed Mon) The walls of this popular okonomiyaki joint are covered in the signatures of celebrity visitors. There’s an English menu. Unless you’re a sumō wrestler who hasn’t eaten for a week, you’ll probably find a half-order more than enough to be getting on with at lunchtime. The shīfūdo supeshiaru (seafood special; ¥1300) is stuffed with squid, shrimp and octopus. Look for the rising-sun pattern on the sign over the door.
Spicy Bar Lal’s (504-6328; 5-12 Tatemachi Naka-ku; dishes ¥500-4200; lunch & dinner) This colourful Indian and Nepalese restaurant serves filling lunch specials from ¥920. Tasty curries, naans and a Bollywood soundtrack make this a nice change, if you ever get tired of okonomiyaki. There is an English menu.
Wein Izakaya Banzai (245-3403; 4-20 Fujimi-chō; ¥650-1200;5-11pm, to midnight Fri & Sat) What do you mean you didn’t come all the way to Japan to eat pig’s knuckle? The picture menu features an impressive selection of sausages and German-style cold meats. Wallerstein dark lagers are ¥1030; Nuremberger sausages are ¥280 each.
Okonomi-mura (241-2210; 5-13 Shintenchi Naka-ku; dishes ¥700-1000;11am-2am) Twenty-five stalls spread over three floors, all of them serving the same thing – this Hiroshima institution is an atmospheric place to get acquainted with the local speciality of okonomiyaki. It’s close to the Parco department store; the entrance is decorated with dozens of red-and-white lanterns, and the name is written in red illuminated characters.
Ristorante Mario (248-4956; 4-11 Nakajima-chō Naka-ku; dishes ¥1000-2000; lunch & dinner, 11.30am-11.30pm Sat & Sun) A cosy ivy-walled place across the road from the Peace Memorial Museum (close to the roadside sculptures), serving good, honest Italian food. Lunch courses start at ¥1900, and there is an English (though largely Italian!) menu. Try to reserve on weekends.
Kaki-tei (090-8062-0378; 11 Hashimoto-chō Naka-ku; lunch & dinner, closed Tue) This intimate bistro on the riverbank specialises in oysters prepared in a variety of mouthwatering ways. Grilled options include champagne cream yaki (¥850 for two). The daily oyster lunch is ¥1200. There’s no English menu, but the friendly staff will help you figure things out. Look for the green noren decorated with oysters and the words ‘Oyster Conclave’ in English.
Tōshō (506-1028; 6-24 Hijiyama-chō Minami-ku; lunch/dinner menus from ¥1575/3000; lunch & dinner) In a traditional wooden building overlooking a delightful pond and garden, Tōshō specialises in delicious homemade tofu (the menu has some pictures). It’s a short walk from Danbara 1 chōme tram stop, left uphill after the Hijiyama shrine.
Cha Cha Ni Moon (241-7444; 2-6-26 Otemachi Naka-ku; dishes from ¥3000; 5-11.30pm) Sophisticated minimalist chic prevails in this softly lit old house. There’s a cosy bar downstairs and two floors of intimate semiprivate dining rooms upstairs. The beautifully presented dishes here are based on traditional Kyoto cuisine. Look for the tiny ‘Moon’ sign across from the small park.
Drinking
The city’s lively entertainment district is made up of hundreds of bars, restaurants and karaoke joints crowding the lanes between Aioi-dōri and Heiwa-Ōdōri in the city centre.
Nawanai (248-0588; Fujimi Bldg, 12-10 Kanayama-chō Naka-ku; 6pm-midnight) This lively basement izakaya is an atmospheric place to mingle with locals over fresh fish and a range of local sakes. Try ko-iwashi (baby