Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [360]
Two bicycles are available for rent at Nippon Rent-a-car (264-0919; 3-14 Kojin-machi; 24hr), four blocks southeast of the station. Bike rental costs ¥263 per two hours, ¥735 per day.
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MIYAJIMA
0829 / pop 1970
The small island of Miyajima is a Unesco World Heritage Site and one of Japan’s biggest tourist attractions. The vermilion torii (shrine gate) of the Itsukushima-jinja is one of the most photographed sites in the country, and has traditionally been ranked as one of the three best views in Japan. The shrine itself seems to float on the waves at high tide. Besides the main shrine, there are some good hikes on Mt Misen, and large numbers of cheeky deer that wander the streets hitting up tourists for something (anything!) to eat.
Information
There’s a tourist information counter (44-2011; 1162-18 Miyajima-chō; 9am-5pm) in the ferry terminal. Turn right as you emerge and follow the waterfront for 10 minutes to get to the shrine. The shopping street, packed with souvenir outlets and restaurants, as well as the world’s largest shakushi (rice scoop), is a block back from the waterfront.
Sights
ITSUKUSHIMA-JINJA
Going back as far as the late 6th century, Itsukushima-jinja (44-2020; 1-1 Miyajima-chō; admission ¥300; 6.30am-6pm Mar–mid-Oct, to 5.30pm mid-Oct–Nov, Jan & Feb, to 5pm Dec) gives the island its real name. The shrine’s present form dates from 1168, when it was rebuilt under the patronage of Taira no Kiyomori, head of the doomed Heike clan. Its pier-like construction is a result of the island’s holy status: commoners were not allowed to set foot on the island and had to approach the shrine by boat through the floating torii out in the bay. Much of the time, however, the shrine and torii are surrounded by mud: to get the classic view of the torii that adorns the brochures, you’ll need to come at high tide.
On one side of the floating shrine is a floating nō stage built by local lord Asano Tsunanaga in 1680 and still used for performances every year from 16 to 18 April. The famous torii, dating in its present form from 1875, is floodlit at night.
The Treasure House (admission ¥300; 8am-5pm), just outside the main shrine complex, has an unimpressive collection of relics and swords that is only for the incurably curious.
TEMPLES & HISTORICAL BUILDINGS
Dominating the hill immediately to the north of Itsukushima-jinja is Senjō-kaku (44-2020; 1-1 Miyajima-chō; admission ¥100; 8.30am-4.30pm), a huge pavilion built in 1587 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The atmospheric hall is constructed with massive pillars and beams, and the ceiling is hung with paintings. It looks out onto a colourful five-storey pagoda () dating from 1407. Senjō-kaku was left unfinished when Toyotomi died in 1598.
Miyajima has several important Buddhist temples, including the 1201 Daigan-ji (44-0179; 3 Miyajima-chō; 9am-5pm), just south of the shrine, which dates back to the Heian period and is dedicated to Benzaiten, the Japanese name for Saraswati (the Hindu goddess of good fortune). The seated image of Yakushi Nyorai here is said to have been carved by Kōbō Daishi. The impressive Daishō-in (44-0111; 210 Miyajima-chō; 8am-5pm), just south of town at the foot of Mt Misen, is a worthwhile stopping point on the way up or down the mountain Click here. This Shingon temple is crowded with interesting things to look at: from Buddhist images and prayer wheels to sharp-beaked tengu (bird-like demons) and a cave containing images from each of the 88 Shikoku pilgrimage temples. An informative English pamphlet is available. South of Itsukushima-jinja is the picturesque pagoda Tahō-tō.
MIYAJIMA HISTORY & FOLKLORE MUSEUM
Set in a fine garden, this museum (44-2019; 57 Miyajima-chō; admission ¥210; 8.30am-5pm, closed Mon) combines a 19th-century merchant house with exhibitions