Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [363]
Just north of Sakate is the turn-off to the picturesque fishing village of Tanoura (), site of the village school featured in the film Twenty-Four Eyes. The film was based on a novel by local writer Tsuboi Sakae and was a huge hit in postwar Japan. The set used in the 1980s remake of the original B&W film is now open as the Twenty-Four Eyes Movie Village (; 82-2455; Tanoura; admission ¥630, combined ticket with the old school ¥750; 9am-5pm), where bus loads of tourists gather to wallow in nostalgia and stock up on souvenirs before sitting down to watch old clips from the film. Also worth seeing is the perfectly preserved 1902 school building (; admission ¥200, combined ticket with the movie village ¥750; 9am-5pm), a short walk from the Movie Village on the road back to Sakate.
CENTRAL MOUNTAINS
The Kanka-kei cable car (; one way/return ¥700/1250; 8.30am-5pm, 8am-5pm late Oct-late Nov, 8.30am-4.30pm late Dec-late Mar) is the main attraction in the central mountains, making a spectacular trip up through the Kanka-kei gorge. There are some breathtaking views out across the Inland Sea from the top. An alternative for keen walkers is to climb up the Omote 12 Views () track from the bottom of the ropeway, and back down via the Ura Eight Views () trail. From the cable car’s arrival point at the top of the gorge, you can hike to the eastern peak of Hoshigajō-yama (; 817m) in an hour. There are seven buses a day from Kusakabe port to the Kōuntei () cable-car station (¥350, last from Kusakabe at 3.40pm, last return at 3.55pm), and three a day between Kanka-kei and Tonoshō port (¥840, last from Tonoshō at 1.30pm, last from Kanka-kei at 4.20pm). Neither of these bus services runs out of season.
The bus from Tonoshō to Kanka-kei stops for 30 minutes at the Chōshi-kei Valley Monkey Park (; 62-0768; Nouma; admission ¥370; 8.10am-4.50pm), where large troupes of monkeys come to squabble for food – they’re used to people and will come right up to you.
Festivals & Events
Shōdo-shima was famous during the Edo period for its tradition of rural kabuki drama (). Two 17th-century thatched theatres survive in the mountain villages east of Tonoshō, and performances are held on 3 May at the Rikyū Hachiman Shrine in Hitoyama () and on the second Sunday in October at the Kasuga Shrine in Nakayama ().
Sleeping & Eating
Tonoshō has a variety of hotels and simple places to eat, particularly along the road running straight back from the waterfront. For the youth hostel and Dutch Pancake Camping, the nearest port is at Kusakabe.
Dutch Pancake Camping (; 82-4616; ww8.tiki.ne.jp/~dpc-/; 1765-7 Nishimura Otsu, Shōdoshima-chō; tents per person ¥1800; ) Run by a Dutchman and his Japanese wife, this friendly spot is in an idyllic setting on a small road behind the Sun Olive onsen, with great views out to sea. Full price details are on the website. The Dutch Café Cupid and Cotton, in a cosy windmill just behind the campsite, serves tasty pancakes and coffee. The cafe is open from 11am to 5pm but is closed on Wednesday. Lunches are around ¥850, and there’s an English menu.
Shōdo-shima Olive Youth Hostel (; 82-6161; www4.ocn.ne.jp/~olive-yh/, in Japanese; 1072 Nishimura, Uchinomi-chō; dm members/nonmembers ¥3255/3885; ) On the south coast, this pleasant hostel has bunk-bed dorms and Japanese- and Western-style rooms. Meals and bike rental are available.
Minshuku Maruse (; 62-2385; http://new-port.biz/maruse/1.htm, in Japanese; Tonoshō-kō; s/tw ¥3650/7000; ) This neatly kept place next to Tonoshō’s post office, a short walk from the ferry terminal, has tidy Japanese-style rooms with shared bathrooms. Meals are available.
Business Hotel New Port (; 62-6310; www.new-port.biz, in Japanese; s/tw from ¥4200/7800; ) Run by the same management as at Maruse (Click here), this small business hotel right by the Tonoshō port has decent Japanese- and Western-style rooms with LAN internet access.