Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [365]
In addition to the main sites, numerous works of outdoor art are situated around the coast, including the pumpkin sculpture by Kusama Yayoi that has become a symbol of the island.
With an early ferry from Takamatsu or Uno it’s possible to cover the sights as a day trip, but there is a growing range of accommodation options available for those who want to soak up the special atmosphere of the island overnight. Close to the ferry port in Miyanoura, bare-bones dormitory accommodation is available at Dormitory in Kūron (; 892-2424; www.kawloon.gozaru.jp/index.html; dm ¥2800). Minshuku Oyaji-no-umi (; 892-2269; http://mypage.odn.ne.jp/home/stone_ocean/; per person with breakfast ¥4200) is in an old house close to the Art House Project in Honmura. Tsutsuji-sō (; 892-2838; fax 892-3871; per person from ¥3675; ) is an encampment of Mongolian-style pao tents by the beach, not far from the two museums. Meals are available.
For upmarket accommodation, there’s Benesse House (892-2030; www.naoshima-is.co.jp/english/benessehouse/index.html; r from ¥30,000; ) itself, where guests can view the artworks at leisure, 24 hours a day.
In Honmura, close to the Art House Project buildings, Café Maruya (; 892-2714; lunch special ¥800; 11am-6pm, closed Mon) is a civilised spot for coffee or higawari ranchi (daily lunch special).
The tourist information desk (892-2299; www.naoshima.net/en/accommodations/index.html; 9am-7pm) in the Marine Station by the ferry port has a full list of accommodation options (also outlined on the website) and a useful bilingual map of the island.
Minibuses link the sights (¥100), and bike hire (per day ¥500; 9am- 7pm) is available at the ferry port. The main areas of interest are easily covered on foot.
There are six to seven ferries a day to the main port of Miyaura from Takamatsu (; ¥510, one hour, 8.10am to 8.05pm) in Shikoku and 15 from Uno () in Okayama-ken (¥280, 20 minutes, 6.10am to 8.25pm). Uno is at the end of the JR Uno line, about an hour from Okayama (¥570). You may have to change trains at Chaya-machi (). Travelling via Naoshima is a good way to get from Honshū to Shikoku, or vice versa.
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KASAOKA ISLANDS
Located between Kurashiki and Fukuyama, the port of Kasaoka is the jumping-off point for a collection of six small islands connected to the mainland only by boat. In particular, the islands of Shiraishi-jima and Manabe-shima are ideal places in which to enjoy a taste of the slower pace of life as it used to be lived all over the Inland Sea.
By train, Kasaoka is 40 minutes west of Okayama, 25 minutes west of Kurashiki or 15 minutes east of Fukuyama on the JR San-yō line. From the station, it’s a five-minute stroll down to the port and the ferry terminal. There are eight boats a day with the Sanyō Kisen (; 0865-62-2866) ferry company to Shiraishi-jima and Manabe-shima.
Shiraishi-jima
0865 / pop 750
Sleepy Shiraishi-jima is popular in the summer for its beaches, and is an excellent year-round place on which to slow down. There are some good walking paths around the island. Go-everywhere Buddhist saint Kōbō Daishi stopped off here on his way back from China in 806; the temple associated with him, Kairyū-ji (), incorporates a trail of small shrines leading to a huge boulder on top of the hill, where there are some breathtaking views out to sea.
Visitors can stay at International Villa (per person ¥3500), where communal accommodation is available on a hillside overlooking the beach. For reservations, contact International Villa Group (086-256-2535; fax 086-256-2576; www.harenet.ne.jp/villa) in Okayama.
Alternatively, there are several minshuku (family-run budget