Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [373]
KAIKYŌ YUME TOWER
The 153m Kaikyō Yume Tower (admission ¥600; 9.30am-9.30pm) is a midget skyscraper, topped by a futuristic billiard ball. The entrance ticket to the tower gets you to the observatory (31-5600; 3-3-1 Buzenda-chō; 9.30am-9.30pm) for some impressive 360-degree views.
AKAMA-JINGŪ
Bright vermilion, Akama-jinjū (31-4138; 4-1 Amidaiji-chō; 24hr) is a shrine dedicated to the seven-year-old emperor Antoku, who died in 1185 in the battle of Dan-no-ura. In the Hōichi Hall stands a statue of Mimi-nashi Hōichi (Earless Hōichi), the blind bard whose musical talents get him into trouble with ghosts in a story made famous by Lafcadio Hearn (for more about Hearn, see boxed text). The shrine is between Karato and Hino-yama. Get off the bus (¥230, 10 minutes) at the Akama-jingū-mae bus stop. Close to the Hōichi statue there is a small exhibit (admission ¥100) of scrolls and manuscripts relating to the Heike story.
The Sentei Festival (2 to 4 May) is held here to remember the Heike women who worked as prostitutes to pay for rites for their fallen relatives. On 3 May women dressed as Heian-era courtesans form a colourful procession at the shrine.
HINO-YAMA
About 5km northeast of JR Shimonoseki Station there are superb views over the Kanmon-kaikyō from the top of 268m-high Hino-yama. To get to the ropeway (31-1351; one-way fare ¥300; 10am-5pm, closed Tue & Thu), get off the bus at Mimosusōgawa () stop, by the Dan-no-ura memorial (¥230). The ropeway is closed for periods over winter, so call to confirm it’s open, if visiting at this time. For a free 780m submarine walk to Kyūshū, head down to a cross-strait walking tunnel that’s popular with local joggers – there are lifts (open 6am to 10pm) down to the tunnel by the Mimosusōgawa-kōen bus stop.
Across the road from the same bus stop is the Dan-no-ura Memorial, marking the spot where the decisive clash between the Minamoto and Taira clans took place in 1185. This is where Taira no Tokiko plunged into the sea with the young emperor Antoku in her arms, rather than surrender to the enemy. The statues depict Yoshitsune (the victorious Minamoto general) and Taira no Tomomori, who tied an anchor to his feet and leapt into the sea at Dan-no-ura when it became clear that his side had lost. Local legend holds that the Heike crabs that live in these waters and have strange face-like patternings on their shells are the reincarnations of angry Taira warriors.
CHŌFU
Chōfu is the old castle town area and, while little remains of the castle itself, there are earth walls and samurai gates, along with a museum and several temples and shrines.
The Shimonoseki City Art Museum (; 45-4131; Chōfu Kuromon Higashi-machi 1-1; admission ¥200; 9.30am-5pm, closed Mon) houses an eclectic collection of local art and temporary exhibits. At the time of writing, renovations were scheduled for early 2010, so call to see if it’s reopened. Opposite the art museum is Chōfu-teien (; 46-4120; Chōfu Kuromon Higashi-machi 8-11; admission ¥200; 9am-5pm), a garden famous for its flowers in spring and autumn. Head along the coast from here on the main road until you come to a small channel that heads inland. Following this brings you to national treasure Kōzan-ji (; 45-0258; 1-2-3 Chōfu Kawabata; 9am-5pm), the family burial temple of the local Mōri lords, with a Zen-style hall dating from 1327. The Chōfu Museum (; 45-0555; admission ¥200; 9.30am-5pm, closed Mon) is also in the temple grounds.
Sleeping
Hinoyama Youth Hostel (22-3753; www.e-yh.net/shimonoseki; 3-47 Mimosusogawa-chō; d ¥3200; ) Amazing views of the strait and relaxed service make this one of the best youth hostels in Western Honshū. You can take a Hino-yama bus from the station (¥230, 26 minutes). Meals are available.
Green Hotel Shimonoseki (31-1007; fax 31-3603; www.greenhotelshimonoseki.jp, in Japanese; 1-16-13 Takezaki-chō; s/tw ¥4800/8800; ) Singles in this bright, friendly little chain hotel are small, but it’s well kept and a short walk from the station and