Japan (Lonely Planet, 11th Edition) - Chris Rowthorn [380]
CHAPEL OF ST MARIA
The tiny Maria-dō (Mary Chapel) dates from 1951, and was built as a memorial to the Christians who died here during the final period of persecution. More than 150 ‘hidden Christians’ were imprisoned in a Buddhist temple on this site after their discovery in Nagasaki in the early years of the Meiji Restoration. Thirty-six of them died for their faith before a law allowing freedom of religion was passed in 1873. A procession is held here on 3 May to commemorate the martyrs.
OTHER SIGHTS
South of town and just a short walk from each other, are the beautiful former residences of Nishi Amane (Ushiroda; admission free; 9am-5pm), a philosopher and political scientist prominent in the Meiji government, and Mori Ōgai, a highly regarded novelist who served as a physician in the Imperial Japanese Army. At the rear of the latter is the Mori Ōgai Memorial Museum (72-3210; 238 Machida; museum ¥600, residence grounds ¥100; 9am-5pm, closed Mon Dec-Mar), a modern building housing many of the writer’s personal effects. There are no English explanations.
The Morijuku Museum (72-3200; 542 Morimura; admission ¥300; 9.30am-4.30pm) is an impressive building that once served as the home of a shōya (village headman), with a room of bullfight sketches by Goya and paintings by local artists. Make sure you see the pinhole camera feature on the 2nd floor (the proprietor will gladly show you). Tsuwano Dentō Kōgeisha (72-1518; 8-7 Ushiroda; admission free; 9am-5pm, closed Tue) is a traditional craft shop where washi (Japanese handmade paper) is made. You can watch the paper being made and also have a go at it yourself (¥600 to ¥1000).
Kuwabara Shisei Photography Museum (72-3171; 71-2 Ushiroda; admission ¥300; 9am-4.45pm) has a small collection dedicated to the work of Kuwabara Shisei, a photojournalist born near Tsuwano in 1936. It’s in the same building as the information office, next to the station. Across the street is the Anno Mitsumasa Art Museum (72-4155; Ekimae; admission ¥800; 9am-5pm), showing works by the local artist.
Along the main street in Tonomachi are three old sake breweries. First on the left as you head away from the station is Kasen (72-0036; 221 Ushiroda); further up the same street is Furuhashi (72-0048; 196 Ushiroda), home to the Uijin () brand. In between is Hashimoto (72-0055; 218 Ushiroda), which has been in the same family since 1717, although no brewing takes place on-site now.
South of the town is the shrine Washibara Hachiman-gū, about 4km from the station, where yabusame (archery contests) on horseback are held on the second Sunday in April.
If you fancy a soak, head to Nagomi-no-sato (; 72-4122; 256 Washibara; admission ¥600; 10am-9pm, closed Thu), an onsen complex that is a 15-minute walk along the main road south of the Mori museum.
Festivals & Events
The Sagi Mai Matsuri (Heron Dance Festival), which includes a procession of dancers dressed as herons, is performed on 20 and 27 July. The festival procession takes in the major route from the station through Tonomachi to Yasaka Jinja near the Inari Shrine.
Sleeping
Hoshi Ryokan (72-0136; fax 72-0241; 53-6 Ushiroda; per person with meals ¥6500; ) The Hoshi Ryokan is a friendly minshuku located opposite the bicycle shop, less than a minute’s walk from the station. Accommodation is in spacious tatami rooms that include shared bathrooms.
Wakasagi-no-yado Minshuku (/fax 72-1146; http://gambo-ad.com/tsuwano/hotel/wakasagi/index.htm, in Japanese; 98-6 Morimura-guchi; per person with 2 meals ¥7500; ) This well-kept minshuku is on the main road between Tonomachi and the Mori Ōgai house. Walking from the station, look for the white building on the left with a checked-tile design, and the curtain with a picture of a heron.
Noren Yado Meigetsu (72-0685; fax 72-0637; http://gambo-ad.com/tsuwano/hotel/meigetsu/, in Japanese; 665 Ushiroda-guchi; per person with 2 meals from ¥10,500; )